Haute Link!

Catwalk Queen has an interesting post critiquing the menswear show at the Royal College of Art. Definitely worth a read as she details the futurist concept of the show.

Royal College of Art Fashion Show: Menswear [Catwalk Queen]

Trench Coat…a Timeless Classic That’s a Wardrobe Workhorse

The trench coat has established itself as a classic since arriving on the scene a century ago. It is a wardrobe staple that will not be going anywhere anytime soon. It should be a part of any man’s wardrobe.

The trench has become a classic through a blend of form and function. The trench is an excellent weatherproof coat, providing warmth and comfort while being inherently stylish. It is essential for protecting one’s business attire. The removable lining allows it to be used through many seasons and conditions. It is a coat that can be worn by anyone.

The trench coat is considered outerwear. It is essentially a raincoat, being made from waterproof fabrics of cotton, drill or poplin. In recent times, designers have updated this classic by using other materials such as leather.




History

As with many modern advancements, the creation stems from military use.

The inventor of the trench is Thomas Burberry, founder of the classic British luxury label. Burberry has been known for creating high quality outwear to protect people from the constant rains that are the norm in England.

Burberry developed and patented a fabric called gabardine. This breathable, weatherproof, tear-proof fabric was the basis for many of Burberry’s clothing, including the trench.

The trench is a descendant of the tielocken coat created in the 1890’s and adapted by British officers. During WW1 the War office commissioned Burberry to transform the earlier coat for new requirements in combat. Burberry added D-rings and epaulets and the trench as we know it was born.

The soldiers quickly dubbed the coats “trench coats” and the name has stuck.

In the 1920’s Burberry added their iconic Burberry check pattern and the classic was further established.




Modern Times

Today the trench is an iconic and stylish garment.

It has landed in pop culture history being used in iconic films from Humphrey Bogart in “Casablanca”, to Peter Sellers in “Pink Panther” and other figures such as Dick Tracy and the Terminator.

Though many designers and companies produce the trench today, many argue that Burberry’s is still the best.

Designers continually update the look by adding new fresh colors and patterns.




Buying

Trench coat’s vary in price from below $100 to over $2000.

Many brands offer trench coats, from Burberry & Brooks Brothers to J. Crew & fast-fashion retailers on the scene.

When purchasing a trench we say go to the best for one’s budget. Our philosophy is to go high on classics. These wardrobe workhorses are timeless and eternally stylish.

Go for a classic cut this hits around the knee.

Also if budget is a concern go for the classic tan or khaki color. This will give you the most versatility and mileage out of the garment.

Going for a trendy color will date the garment once the current color is out. This rule may ignored if one chooses to pick a color that’s a staple for them and their wardrobe.

A quality well made trench will last a very long time if care is taken in it’s maintenance and upkeep.

Zoo York Teams With Mark Giant To Benefit Stoked Mentoring

Zoo York is following the non-stop guest-designer trend in great form. The New York City-based skateboard brand is teaming with artist Mike Giant to the benefit of Stoked Mentoring, a nonprofit youth organization.

The collabo will result in a limited-edition skateboard deck and T-shirt. Giant, known for his tattoo and graffiti designs, will make a, “stylish tribute to Zoo York, Stoked, and NYC’s five boroughs.” Proceeds of both items will go to Stoked Mentoring.

We think this collaboration is great and hold Zoo York and Mark Giant in high regards for it.

ZY x Stoked Mentoring x Mike Giant Collab [Zoo York Events Blog]

Zoo York [website]

Mike Giant [website]

Stoked Mentoring [website]

PRO-Keds Breathe New Life…And What A Life It Is!!!

Back in 2005, when we learned that Dame Dash of Rocawear fame was entering the shoe game via PRO-Keds we were interested. After all, this is the man rumoured to wear a new pair of kicks everyday.

We figured he would have a impact on the brand by bringing his urban appeal to the shoes. We were also a bit leery, wondering if the opportunity would be used to plaster his moniker all over every shoe.

Two years later we are pleased that this is not the case. Instead Mr. Dash has brought the brand back to life and better than ever. The range of styles offered is impressive and left us wanting many, if not all of the collection.

The styles offered stay true to the PRO-Keds heritage. There are classic styles, including such favorites as the Royal Canvas, Court King and the Royal Master basketball shoe.

But there are also designs capturing today’s pop trends. In particular, one shoe has the images of Wonder Bread mixed with the all-over-print trend to produce an eye-popping pleasure.

The brand is hopping on the guest-designer bandwagon, developing lines with today’s most sought-after contemporary artists for limited edition series.

Mr. Dash has also brought new levels of innovation to the industry. The brand has introduced concepts such as scented sneakers (coconut, lifesavers flavor and watermelon). Seriously, who thinks of this?

The website is well-designed. One could easily kill time at work getting lost in the styles presented on the website. Through the ’shoe definition’ section you can learn about their classics styles and the differences.

The retro mixed with new idea is also brought forth on the website which plays classic, old-school hip-hop artists. We didn’t hear one song twice. Better yet, do as we did and let it act as D.J. playing background music free of commercials. Seriously…it’s that good.

The range of styles is all the more appealing when one looks at the prices, which are more than reasonable, in the $50-$75 range. With styles swinging from the simple, minimalist to the in-you-face.  There is truly something for everyone. A surf through the site is encouraged, even by those not considered in the “urban” market.

PRO-Keds [website]

Patrick Robinson to design for Gap!!!

Designer Patrick Robinson has been hired by Gap Inc. as executive vice president of design.

Gap Inc. released an official statement on May 23, 2007.

Starting May 29th, Robinson will oversee all areas of men’s wear, women’s wear and accessories. He will report to Marka Hansen, president of Gap North America, and Gary Muto, president, Gap Adult and gapbody.

“Patrick brings broad experience – from high-end fashion to mass market retail – demonstrating his versatility to interpret and create fresh, clean designs true to the Gap brand aesthetic,” said Ms. Hansen. “We believe his skills and experience with some of the most respected apparel labels in the world will be great assets to Gap brand.”

Mr. Robinson’s career in design is impressive. He joins Gap from Paco Rabanne in Paris, where he has been artistic director since 2005. Most recently, he designed a limited-edition collection for Target’s GO International initiative. Prior to his tenure at Paco Rabanne, Mr. Robinson held senior design and leadership roles at Perry Ellis and Anne Klein. Mr. Robinson served as the design director at Le Collezioni White Label by Giorgio Armani from 1990 to 1994.

This should bring a refreshing vibe to the retailing giant which has been experiencing woes lately. Gap desperately needs to freshen up it’s image to gain it’s appeal back. They face stiff competition from increasing fast-fashion brands like Uniqlo and H&M.

Gap Inc. Names Patrick Robinson Head Of Design Of Gap Adult, Gapbody [press release]

What is a pleat?

What is a pleat?

A pleat is a classic sewing technique in which the fabric of an article of clothing is doubled over itself and sewn together. In menswear pleats are commonly seen in pants around the waist and shirts on cuffs and the back.

They allow extra fabric to be incorporated into a garment. In pants, pleats give the effect of hiding or concealing items such as pockets filled with various items. They also allow some garments to move better providing ease of movement.

Pants can be seen with one or two pleats. Generally when pants have pleats they will also have cuffs. The weight of the cuff allowing the pants hang better.

 

 

Do Shorts Fit Into the Dress Code?

With the current style of shorts in men’s wear the question of dress code no doubt arises. The New York Times has an article addressing the current trend of shorts and how they fit into dress code.

For most offices this is a no, no. Some casual or fashion-forward offices may allow it. It is best to take this question to your Human Resource department.

Shorts obviously serve as a certain function in the hot days of summer. However there is no way that shorts make a professional look at this time. As Jim Moore, the creative director of GQ points out, “Just because it’s boiling hot doesn’t mean the whole dress code goes out the window.”

It may take time for the eyes to adjust to the look. But we love this look, despite having difficulty calling shorts in hot days of summer a ‘trend’, but whatever.

We think this look will be seen on many a weekend this summer. It will also be showing up at cocktail parties and outside cafes.

The appeal of the trend has been proven at the retail level where sales of shorts have been brisk.

If you work in a creative office where this look passes muster, make sure you wear it with style. It goes without saying, but the current trend is in reference to sleek, slim and chic shorts. We are NOT talking about jean shorts or oversize, frumpy khaki shorts.

And be sure to pair it with classics like v-neck summer sweaters or cardigans, button-up shirts and a quality pair of shoes. It works best with no socks or low cut ones to avoid the school boy look.

For Hot Cafes and Very Cool Offices [NYT]

 

Forever 21 Serves Up Men’s Wear

HOLY CRAP!!! Forever 21 doesn’t play around. The fast fashion retailer of the ubiquitous yellow bags has moved into men’s wear.

The sheer range of styles and prices are great. Graphic tee’s, button-ups, hoodies, jeans, outerwear. Not for everyone, but this store can satisfy a lot of tastes.

One budget conscious male could build a mini, but powerful wardrobe in this store alone.

They have clothing to take a guy from work to leisure activities.

Granted the prices may also reflect the quality. We are not speaking of high tailoring. But we’re also not speaking inflated prices.

Forever 21 sticks to a formula: Pumping out the latest styles for the least amount of money. And they do it well!

Their men’s wear styles are a reflection of the current trends pumping through fashion.They are currently offering the striped craze that is still going strong. They have all-over print hoodies and even knitted cardigans.

If a guy has a great wardrobe already, this store is a great way to update one’s look each season without spending a fortune.

It fits in great with out philosophy: paying serious dough for classics that are timeless and of good quality and being more reserved on the trendy pieces that are in fashion today, out of fashion tonight.

Forever 21 is perfect for the fast-fashion trendy pieces.  What are your thought’s?

Forever 21-Men [website]

Ralph Lauren Enters the Russian Market

Ralph Lauren is invading Russia by launching twin boutiques in Moscow. The boutiques represent Laurens official entrance to the Russian market.

The American company is entering in a big way with a store in downtown Moscow and an 8,000 sq. ft. flagship in Barvikha, a luxury shopping village.

Lauren has expressed desire for an increased global presence. This move is part of the companies broader expansion into the global market. One of the boutiques is a flagship store for the brand.

We think the American luxury aesthetic represented by Lauren will be welcomed. The Russians now have money to spend and are demanding luxury.

The classic American designs produced by Ralph Lauren will be a breath of fresh air for the country.

Rendezvous in Russia: Ralph Lauren Launches First Stores in Moscow [WWD]

Narciso Rodriguez to Expand To Full Men’s Wear Line

Two years after introducing a few men’s wear garments, designer Narciso Rodriguez has plans to launch a fully dedicated men’s wear line.
The designer is highly regarded for his tailoring and craftsmanship in women’s wear.

After signing a deal with Liz Claiborne recently the designer has plans for aggressive growth of the label.

Rodriguez will launch his first men’s fragrance this July called Narciso Rodriguez For Him.

We think that the men’s wear line will be highly successful and hugely influential. We hear that Rodriguez intends to base the collection in knitwear and high tailoring.

While his current offerings for men’s are shown with the women’s wear collection, eventually Rodriguez intends to separate them.

Based on what we’ve seen so far this will be a label that will be a force in the upcoming years.

What is Selvedge Denim?

What is Selvedge?
Selvedge, also referred to as selvage, is a type of denim.

The term refers to the “self-edge”, a finished edge created by the production process. Selvedge is produced on old-style shuttle looms.

Shuttle looms are antique tools that were outdated by newer technologies in the 1950’s. Jeans today are mostly made on projectile looms which are more cost efficient for manufacturers.

Projectile looms rose to the industry standard because of market forces and the increasing popularity of jeans in the 1950’s and 1960’s. More material could be created for less money with projectile looms.

The trade-off was quality and strength of material which was passed on to the end consumer. As the major players like Levi’s and Lee upgraded their looms, these old-style looms eventually ended up in Japan.

Denim purists value the shuttle looms for the higher quality that can be achieved. Basically, with a shuttle loom, the weaving process involves a cross-thread that goes back and forth as one continuous thread to create the fabric. This results in a finished edge that will not fray because the cross-threads, or weft, double back on themselves. A superior strength fabric is created.

This differs from projectile looms which use multiple threads, a new one for each crossing. This results in frayed edges and a denim of lower quality.

Selvedge denim is one of the finest denims that can be used in jeans production today and the price indeed reflects that. The weaving process takes longer to complete but achieves a tightly woven, heavier weight fabric that is built to last. In fact, one of the ways to distinguish vintage jeans of the past is by looking for this trademark characteristic.

Selvedge denim produces a cleaner edge that seams together in a distinctive manner.

Selvedge denim is also unique in that denim produced on shuttle looms is irregular by nature. As the denim ages these irregularities manifest making each pair unique to the individual wearer.

Aaron Lacrate Mixes Street Style with Luxury

After a collaboration with Paris based cashmere maker Lucien Pellat-Finet, Aaron Lacrate of Milkcrate has designed his own line of cashmere knits. The sweaters are being released under the sub-label ALA Crate.

This collection brings together street style with luxury. Bold prints have been mixed with fine cashmere to achieve this unique fusion. Some may recall the iconic skateboard graphics of the 80’s.

The line will be produced in monochromatic palette of black, white and grey.

Also, an interview with the designer can be found on Inquiringmind Magazine’s website.

Milkcrate [website]

Richard James Opens Bespoke Boutique

Richard James has opened a bespoke shop across the street of his 29 Savile Row shop. The boutique which is located at 19 Clifford Street, will feature uber-lux items in addition to bespoke and made-to-measure clothing.

IN 1992 Richard James opened his first shop at 29 Savile Row, which sells the tailors ready-to-wear collection.

Later this year the designer will offer a new men’s cologne.

Marc Jacobs cancels Milan show

Marc Jacobs has canceled plans to present their men’s wear collection in Milan this summer. The company cited difficulties in finding a suitable location.

As has been the case for years, the collection will be seen by appointment.

News of the cancellation is very disappointing to us. The ready-to-wear men’s line has not been presented on the runway in years. Rather men’s wear has played second fiddle to companies focus on it’s successful women’s wear.

Being able to present the men’s wear collection on the runway will give the line more exposure. We hope that the company finds a suitable location next season.

[DNR]

Chip & Pepper Guest Designers for J.C. Penny

Premium denim designers Chip & Pepper have hopped on the guest designer bandwagon. They have become bedfellows with J.C. Penny in a collaboration to bring juniors and men’s jeans to the retailer.

The New York Post reports the line called C7P will be priced from $15 to $35 in contrast to Chip & Peppers signature line which retails for above $200.

Jeanius! [NYP]

Earnest Sewn Launches Ultra-Premium Denim

Premium denim company Earnest Sewn is launching an ultra-premium line of men’s wear called AEC&S. The acronym stands for, An Earnest Cut & Sew, and should hit shelves in early 2008. The line will allow the company to explore more creative and innovatice outlets without worrying about price.
AEC&S will use exclusive Japanese selvedge denim and feature high-end design techniques such as:

• hand applied finishing
• die cast buttons
• triple needle construction on heavy stress seams

The line will debut with two fits available in 5 washes and will mainly be made on-site in the stores Meatpacking District location.

The line will be priced from $285 to $395 and be made on a limited availability basis.

An Earnest Cut & Sew

821 Washington Street near Gansevoort Street

(212) 242-3414

Earnest Sewn [website]

Photo credit: Jeremy Liebman

Franca Sozzani of L’Uomo Vogue

IQONS has an interview with Franca Sozzani, editor-in-chief of Vogue Italia (the Italian edition of Vogue) L’Uomo Vogue (the Italian mens version).

Many subjects are discussed from young talent to new media’s influence to the current state of creativity in fashion.

The interview also touches on the concept of men dressing up and men’s style. One quote in particular Ms. Sozzani says of style:

“What is interesting is aesthetics. If you see well-dressed people every once in a while, wearing things that might be a little bizarre but that are mixed together in the right way, it’s a pleasure! It doesn’t seem strange… it’s about personal research, it’s about not being banal.”

We believe this is a statement that be heard by everyone. Style and fashion are not something to be afraid of. It is okay to mix it up and dress differently.

They only way menswear will evolve is by doing so and not by dressing identically.

The full interview can be found after the jump.

IQONS interview

Fashion, New Media and Technology

 Second City Style has an interesting video interview between Julie Fredrickson of Coutorture Media and Cate Corcoran of WWD.

The interview discusses relationship in fashion, new media and technology. It’s interesting and great to see this dialogue of new media and fashion. It is changing peoples approach to style and dress through the connectivity of users across the globe.

New media has added to the democratization of fashion from an elite few to global masses. This sharing of opinions, styles and tastes will allow more people to participate in fashion. Individual style can be enhanced through what Cate Cocoran refers to as “shared awareness”. This awareness allows users to see tastes and trends from around the world.

Technology, specifically the Internet, will continue to change to world of fashion as the marriage between them evolves.

Second City Style [video]

The Celebrity Guest Designer Craze Hits Men’s Wear

A current trend sweeping the world of fashion is the celebrity as guest designer. This usually results in celebrities teaming with designers or department stores to offer a collection of trendy, cheap chic clothing.

Ask any fashionable woman and they will be more than aware of the craze. These collaborations have been mostly aimed at women’s wear.

But in a welcome addition to the celebrity designer trend men’s wear will finally get a part of the action.

The International Herald Tribune reports in an article on the collaboration between designer Tommy Hilfiger and French soccer star Thierry Henry.

The line which is expected to launch this summer in Europe and Asia initially, will be priced higher than Hilfiger’s main lines.

This “capsule collection” is expected to comprise of trench coats, suits and sweaters amongst others pieces.

Proceeds for the sales will be going to Henry’s charity, the One 4 All Foundation.

We see this a great news and hopefully the beginning of menswear guest designer collaborations. These partnerships have proven highly effective in the women’s wear market. We think it will translate to the same for men’s wear.

Star power, helping to sell the menswear line [IHT]

Bottega Veneta Mens Spring/Summer 2007

The nascent men’s wear collection from Bottega Veneta for Spring/Summer 07 presents a fresh, clean, up-to-date look. The brand is heralding the introduction of something new.

The slim, tight, fitted silhouettes were in touch with the current trends while the wrinkled aspects of certain pieces give a care free look that expresses relaxed days of summer.

The luxury brand sticks with their signature palette of earth tones. Colors include whites, creams, greens, and browns.

Major trend pieces included vests, military jackets and scarves used as ties. Fabrics were made of metallics, which have been dominating runways recently.

The brand was expressing a lifestyle purpose which came across a man on the go. Masculine leather handbags were clutched in palm at the side.

A full video of the show can be seen via the link below.

Bottega Veneta [runway]

Photo: Marcio Madeira for GQstyle.com

Bottega Veneta Positions for Growth In Men’s Wear

Bottega Veneta, the luxury brand owned by Gucci Group, has opened it’s largest store in the world. The Japanese city of Ginza is the site of it’s flagship store.

The most significant aspect is that an entire floor has been dedicated to the brands recently launched menswear line.

This is good news for menswear. Bottega is a brand that reinforces an individual’s identity by not using logos as a part of it’s design philosophy.

The power of logos is currently an important aspect to the appeal of many luxury brands. Yet we believe that the no-logo aesthetic of Bottega lends itself to the creation of timeless designs. Combined with it’s attention to fabric and construction Bottega is positioning itself to the creation of timeless designs.

Bottega Veneta [website]

DNR [source]

All Over Print Trend Invasion

A trend that we couldn’t help but notice on the streets of New York is the all over print hoodies. These are the ubiquitous, in-your-face prints of basically anything, in colors that range to basically anything. From takes on Charlie Browns’ iconic shirt on acid to random geometric shapes, these hoodies are a trend one can’t help but notice.

We find them being worn by urban youths, to hipsters to even a few baby sightings.

The New York Times recently felt the need to report on the trend of hoodies costing upwards of $400 as is the case with Pharrell Williams’ clothing line Billionaire Boys Club.

While we do see the appeal, we also see the insanity of shelling out that much on an obvious…fad…unless you have it like that!

While the hoodie is a definite urban classic, this take on it may be here today, gone tonight.

You Got a Problem With My Hoodie? [NYT]

Billionaire Boys Club [website]

Ray-Ban Wayfarers Re-Launch for Spring/Summer 07

Ray-Bans have returned this season to welcome applause in the midst of higher-end, designer shades. Their iconic Wayfarers were first introduced to the world in 1952 being easily recognized with their iconic shape and sliver slivers on both ends of the frame.

Although commonplace today, Wayfarers masculine, plastic design made use of new advances in the synthetics industry at that time.

The stylish shades have since established a solid place in pop culture, being the poster glasses for Tom Cruise in “Risky Business”, staple shades of “The Blues Brothers” and shouting out in Don Henley’s “Boys of Summer” lyrics.

They are now back for Spring/Summer 07 as the company has re-launched the original style while adding the colors red and white.

These shades are a staple and great foundation for any sunglass collection. And best of all they can be had for under a buck.

Ray-Ban

Online shopping increases as sales of clothing rises

The International Herald Tribune reports today that:

“For the first time since online retailing was born about a decade ago, sales of clothing in the United States have overtaken those of computer hardware and software…revenue from online sales of clothes reached $18.3 billion in the United States, surpassing online revenue from personal computers, printers and word-processing programs, which totaled $17.2 billion.”

This is not shocking to us but great news to hear nonetheless. We see the Internet and online buying as an inevitable progression to fit our current lifestyles. This will only continue as consumers awaken to the comfort and security provided by online shopping.

Those retailers who fail to make this connection will be left behind scrambling for a way to connect to their consumer in the near future.

Clothing sales make big inroads on the Web [IHT]