Milan Fashion Week: Alexander McQueen Spring Summer 2008 Menswear Runway Review
June 28, 2007
The S/S 08 collection from Alexander McQueen was an exercise in humorous variety.
The designer had obvious fun with print and proportion. From the beginning, when polka dot prints marched out, the humorous tone of the collection was set.
The fun continued throughout the show as oversized jackets paired with skinny pants. Jumbo sweaters sometimes seemed like knit dresses.
A retro 60’s vibe came through in the styling and clash of colors.
All of the humour came to a head at the end of the show as models in literal ‘wet suits’ walked out.
Photo credit: Marcio Madeira for Men.Style.com
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Milan Fashion Week: Giorgio Armani Spring Summer 2008 Menswear Runway Review
June 28, 2007
For S/S 07 Giorgio Armani presented laid back easy elegance.
Gone were the ties and collars. Jackets with minimal construction paired with loose pants.
Armani reinvented the shirt with unconventional cuts. Some blurred the line between shirt and jacket. Others had buttons that were very low placed leaving the top portion exposed and flowing like a scarf. Big zip-up pockets were added with a free hand.
Metallic prints added some glam to the relaxed looks and a color palette of mostly sea and slate.
A wrinkled look pervaded the collection to match the get-up-and-go feeling of the collection. Mix and match looks gave the impression of a man who spent little time dressing, but had full confidence of his appearance.
Photo credit: Marcio Madeira for Men.Style.com
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NYC power outage shuts down train lines
June 27, 2007
O.K….not fashion related but since we’re based in New York this may have an effect on our servers and thus affect continuing coverage. We hope to stay online, but if not this is why. All we can say is we hope the trend of August 2003 isn’t coming back into vogue!
THE ASSOCIATED PRESS
NEW YORK — A power outage darkened a large swath of Manhattan and the Bronx on Wednesday, knocking out traffic lights, cutting subway service and forcing the evacuation of the Metropolitan Museum of Art on one of the hottest days of the year.
“The entire neighborhood is out,” said Phil Quintana, a building superintendent on 94th Street on the Upper East Side.
Con Edison said the blackout affected 136,700 customers in all. The cause was under investigation, but spokesman Chris Olert said it was some sort of transmission disturbance. He didn’t know the heat was a factor. “We won’t even speculate on the cause yet,” Olert said.
The outage stretched from the east side of Manhattan to the Bronx. The office of the Bronx borough president office said multiple spots were affected, including all around Yankee Stadium.
The Metropolitan Museum of Art was evacuated around 4 p.m. and visitors sitting on the outside steps in the sweltering heat. The street lights up and down Fifth Avenue were dark.
The power outage caused suspensions and delays along the city’s subways. New York City Transit spokeswoman Deirdre Parker said the trouble started at 3:40 p.m.
The city was in the second day of temperatures well over 90 degrees.
The outage came a year after tens of thousands of Con Edison customers in Queens were affected by a blackout during some of the hottest days of summer.
Milan Fashion Week: Roberto Cavalli Spring Summer 2008 Menswear Runway Review
June 27, 2007
For S/S 08 Roberto Cavalli gave a collection of glam rock meeting fine tailoring.
Cavalli’s usual animal prints gave way to psychedelic all over print on trousers, shirts and jacket lining for this collection. Metallic and leathers commingled on the runway.
The designer was zipper mad with zipper laden jackets and trousers that turn into shorts and a zip-up knee.
The color range was also wild and all over the palette.
The evening looks at the end featured a similarly eclectic range of suits. From single-breasted to double, thin to wide to overdosed wide lapels.
Photo credit: Marcio Madeira for Men.Style.com
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Milan Fashion Week: Calvin Klein Collection Spring Summer 2008 Runway Review
June 27, 2007
For S/S 08 Calvin Klein Collection designer Italo Zucchelli presented a sports heavy collection.
Fabrics of cotton, jersey and lycra were mixed with Zucchelli’s embrace of new techno-fabrics.
Blazers and jackets gave some formality to the collection that included jumpsuits and pants with drawstrings at the waist and ankles. Leather pants had zip-up ribbed cuffs.
Zucchelli continued with the emphasis on tights from the S/S 07 collection. However this time around they they were reinvented as shorts, though still paired with jackets.
Waist length jackets with double zippers off center dominated the outwear.
A color palette of tans, blacks and greys was given infusions of blue and peach and metallics.
Photo credit: Marcio Madeira for Men.Style.com
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Milan Fashion Week: J. Lindeberg Summer 2008 Menswear Runway Review
June 26, 2007
For S/S 08 J.Lindeberg gives a collection perfect for the beachside complete with color palette of sand and slate.
Relaxed, laid back jackets were paired with drawstring trousers. There was a reinterpretation of shorts that were cut off below the knee, rolled up with tights exposed.
The collection was heavy on light-weight knitwear with many cardigans that were loose and relaxed.
The casual feeling was furthered by layering of knits and vests over t-shirts and untied laces and rolled up sleeves accompanying many of the looks.
Photo credit: Marcio Madeira for Men.Style.com
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Milan Fashion Week: Costume National Spring Summer 2008 Menswear Runway Review
June 26, 2007
For S/S 08 Costume National gave a casual tailoring with somber colors for the season.
Designer Ennio Capasa gave a very neutral color palette of grey and black, which dominated the runway. Adding to the season-less look was the ubiquity of trousers since no shorts were shown in the collection.
Tailored looks were easy and casual as jean-cut trousers mixed with suits and jackets blurring the formal with the informal.
Slouchy, low plunging, v-neck sweaters added to the casual vibe and helped draw out some seasonal feel. As did baggy, breezy pants mixed with similarly comfy knitwear.
Tailored shirts were detailed with low hanging cuffs and paired with skinny ties in a way reminiscent of Dior Homme.
Photo credit: Marcio Madeira for Men.Style.com
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Milan Fashion Week: DSquared Spring Summer 2008 Runway Review
June 26, 2007
For S/S 08 Dean and Dan Caten presented DSquared as the essence of cool.
The presentation was a clear homage to the “King of Cool” Steve McQueen.
Motorcycle, race car, and dare devil imagery came across through the mandatory leather jackets and jumpsuits. Models exuded the essence of cool, with a bad-boy image, as they marched down the runway carrying helmets. Racing stripes and a “Steve” logo were everywhere from hats to patches to belt buckles.
The collection was a mix of rebellious youth-oriented looks as tailoring mixed with casual. Yellow blazers and turtle necks were paired with jeans.
Skinny motorcycle pants contrasted with voluminous jumpsuits tied at the waist. Neat and tucked was contrasted with no fear, let loose, untucked shirts and collars.
Suits with chains added a touch of combativeness to tailored suits with sheen. Detail was paid close attention to in construction, which was contrasted with playful coloring like mint green.
The collection was for a rebel who would go from play to work, and back to play again.
The overall message of effortless cool came across as the DSquared man being one who could get away with anything.
Photo credit: Marcio Madeira for Men.Style.com
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Milan Fashion Week: Bottega Veneta Spring Summer 2008 Menswear Runway Review
June 26, 2007
The S/S 08 collection for Bottega Veneta presented a collection of wrinkled relaxed jackets, trousers and shorts.
Designer Tomas Maier gave simple summer suits with a sun-bleached hint. The carefree tailoring presented outfits perfect for beach-side wear while keeping an urban sophistication.
Fabrics were light enough to allow the layering of vests to pass muster when the temperature soars. Functionality came through in the form of zip-off sleeves and collars for jackets and shirts.
The collection really soared with the accessories. Bags were luxurious made while keeping a distinct masculinity to them. Shoes were the
Maier presented Bottega’s signature tan and creme color palette mixed with sun faded blues and pinks.
Photo credit: Marcio Madeira
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Milan Fashion Week: Gucci Spring Summer 2008 Menswear Runway Review
June 26, 2007
For S/S 08 Gucci presented an eclectic mix of looks.
Designer Frida Giannini used color, print, cut and fabric to give a broad spectrum of suits and sportswear.
Giannini presented a contrast of ‘Good boy/Bad boy’ looks. Inspired by the fifties, good boy preppy was clashed with bad boy leather reminiscent of Steve McQueen.
Suits consisted 2-button fitted single-breasted cuts. They ranged from pure white suits to wild prints of plaid with details such as piping thrown in.
Trousers were skinny fit in humorous prints and colors pairing with similarly loud leather motorcycle jackets.
The color palette of white, black and grey was mixed with Gucci green and red with yellow dashed in.
Photo credit: Marcio Madeira
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Milan Fashion Week: Jil Sander Spring Summer 2008 Menswear Runway Review
June 26, 2007
For Jil Sander S/S 08, designer Raf Simons presented a refined, soft, collection.
Silhouettes juxtaposed clean delicate looks with baggy voluminous trousers and coats.
Suits presented clean silhouettes with a fitted delicate look juxtaposed with baggy trouser. Jackets were cut high at the waist blurring the line between shirt and jacket in some cases. Simons gave 3-buttoned and some 4-buttoned jackets opposed to the single-button jackets in other current collections. Sleeves were cut low on arms for both jackets and short sleeved shirts.
Others looks were tailored takes on basics. T-shirts were effortlessly tailored into ways that demand to be paired with more than jeans. Trousers, aside from suits, toyed with volume through their baggy drape.
Lots of black and white was combined with a soft color palette consisting of subdued hues and rich earth tones here and there.
Photo credit: Marcio Madeira
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Milan Fashion Week: Valentino Spring Summer 2008 Menswear Runway Review
June 26, 2007
For S/S 08 Valentino gives us fine tailoring with a relaxed vibe.
Tailored outfits gave a variety of work and leisure looks.
Double-breasted suits were paired with waistcoats and summer weight sweaters. The tailored looks were complete with pocket ties and neck scarves. The formality was tempered by models walking the runway without socks baring the ease and relaxation in the collection.
A range of tailored looks will effortlessly take a man from the office to the yatch and from day to evening.
A summer palette of whites, blues and pinks gave a fresh, crisp feel.
The relaxed vibe was further enhanced as the runway turned into a cocktail party at the end of presentation. The light hearted carefree feel of the collection was a nice contrast to the tailored looks that are wearable and versatile.
Photo credit: Marcio Madeira
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Milan Fashion Week: Burberry Prorsum Spring/Summer 2008 Menswear Runway Review
June 25, 2007
Burberry heralds in S/S 08 with a refreshing burst of color. Bold juicy colors pervade everything from clothing to accessories.
Designer Christopher Bailey played with proportion by layering voluminous coats over fitted clothing. Silhouettes were toyed with through dropped crotch trousers that slung low in the seat area.
One obvious standout was the label’s continued dedication to techno-fabrics. PVC was used throughout the collection which they’ve been keen on using the past few seasons. Also used was neoprene, the fabric of wetsuits. Neoprene was heavily used in all areas from jackets and shirts to shoes and bags.
Metallics and sheen was also a focus of the collection bringing a fresh appeal through the garments.
The label heavily pushed accessories by featuring glasses, belts and bags on almost every model.
Photo credit: Don Ashby & Olivier Claisse
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Milan Fashion Week: Emporio Armani Spring Summer 2008 Menswear Runway Review
June 25, 2007
For S/S 08 the Emporio Armani collection ran the gamut from relaxed tailoring to sporty chic. The designer presented an extensive amount of looks for the youth oriented label. The one clear message was that Armani was out to please himself and play by his rules.
The designer long known for his signature relaxed take on tailoring gave men effortless breezy silhouettes. The suits volleyed back and forth from single breasted to double and wide legged pants to fitted trousers. In particular one double breasted single button sportcoat stood out.
The designers take on fitted pants gave a garment which was loose and roomy near the waist and thigh becoming tapered down the line of the leg with buttoned calves.
The designer omitted many shirts opting instead to simply pair a cardigans and vests with a sportcoat on bare skin.
The designer took his own direction current print phenominon by includding all over print suits.
One key look in all pants was that they were cropped, an emerging trend seen on quite a few runways.
The relaxed look spilled over into knitwear when the designer created sweaters that opened down the should baring evening more skin.
The color pallette stuck true to the season with bright fresh airy whites and blues.
Photo credit: Marcio Madeira
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Milan Fashion Week: Dolce & Gabbana Spring Summer 2008 Menswear Runway Review
June 25, 2007
For S/S 08 Dolce & Gabbana present an image of man as a warrior.
Suits were presented as the modern day suit of armour featuring narrow silhouettes with thin lapels and thin ties. Most were single-breasted 1-button cuts with shawl collars popping up here and there. The tailored slant also included the current rage of vests.
Shirts brought forth a military presence with epaulets and jackets were reminiscent of a medieval knight. Pretty fitting since a lot of details in menswear can be traced to the suit of armour from cuffs to the placket.
Chunky scarves were ubiquitously wrapped around the necks of most models. Sandals added a gladiator touch to the clothing.
Dolce and Gabbana had an obvious play on proportion with chunky ruffled pants, shorts and jackets. The design duo also had fun with functionality by featuring a cargo pant with tons of pockets. A statement on the increased amount of gadgets and electronics that the urban warrior is now required to carry day to day.
They also dabbled in the mandatory print trend now seen in almost every show.
A subdued camouflage color palette of tans, blacks and browns ruled.
Photo credit: Marcio Madeira
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Milan Fashion Week: Neil Barrett Spring Summer 2008 Runway Review
June 25, 2007
Neil Barrett is going after a youthful customer with studded leather jackets and attention to the current trends.
Neil Barrett has continued most of the freshest trends in his S/S 08 collection. Flashes of ankle, skinny ties, vests, short shorts, horizontal stripes and layering were all seen on the runway.
The Neil Barrett customer will be wading in high waters, with cropped pants that show some serious skin. Barrett also continued to evolve the vest, or waistcoat, depending on what side of the pond you’re on. Barrett’s newest incarnation of the vest was rooted in the studded leather jacket.
Neil Barrett’s message came across through the mixture of tailored and leisure clothing. Blazers were mixed with shorts. Leather vests were mixed with tailored trousers. Other vests were worn over tank tops. Summer scarves were styled into the various looks.
Blacks, tans and whites ruled the color palette.
All in all a solid collection that will transition easily from the runway to the stores.
Photo credit: Maricio Madeira for Men.Style.com
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Milan Fashion Week: Prada Spring Summer 2008 Runway Review
June 25, 2007
Shawl collars, knit trousers, signature sandals, drawstring pants, tights, jumpsuits, floral all over prints. Prada’s S/S 08 collection was interesting if a bit all over.
A surprisingly dark color palette dominated with Miuccia Prada dismissing the color trend and doing as she pleases.
Suits were single breasted, 1-button and with interesting details like shawl collars. Knits were the fabrics of choice for tops and bottoms, suits and separates. Knit, knit, knit, knit, knit!
Trousers were made of knit and snug to the body. In the most extreme case one pair of trousers were strikingly close to the leggings trend, introduced by Calvin Klein last year.
Prada was also having a love affair with prints. Striped prints, floral prints, if it was a print it seems like it was incorporated.
Jackets were of a uniform pattern hitting mid-thigh.
Accessories were what is expected. Beautiful and comfortable. They should translate into strong sales at the retail level.
Photo credit: Marcio Madeira for Men.Style.com
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Milan Fashion Week: Versace Spring Summer 2008 Menswear Runway Review
June 25, 2007
Versace’s S/S 08 collection sends a clear message that their customer wants to be dressed up and looking sharp and tailored.
The design house presented clean, tailored looks with sharp lines and angles. Silhouette’s were fitted on top with pleated roomy pants that gave a relaxed poolside vibe.
Suits were following the current trend of a narrow, fitted, sharp silhouette. Single breasted, 1-button suits ruled the runway contrasted with jackets, waistcoats and cardigans that were mostly double breasted.
Flourishes of red brought out flair in a color palette composed of muted grays, blacks, whites and blues.
One key look we loved was a double breasted cardigan with interesting cut. Other noted looks were trenchcoats that sharply disappeared right at the waist and satin sheens on most suits.
Photo credit: Marcio Madeira for Men.Style.com
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Milan Menswear Week Spring/Summer 2008 Kicks Off!
June 25, 2007
Milano Collezioni Uomo, Milan Menswear Fashion Week, has kicked off over the weekend.
Some of the shows set on the calendar for the week include:
Dirk Bikkemberg
DSquared
Alexander McQueen
Armani
Vivienne Westwood
Bottega Veneta
Gianfranco Ferre
Costume National
Burberry
Missoni
Dries Van Noten
We will be bringing you reviews of as many of the collections as possible.
Milano Collezioni Uomo (fashion week)
23/06/2007 - 27/06/2007
Milan, Italy
Alive T-shirts
June 22, 2007
Alive is a t-shirt company that has cool funky graphics of threatened species and gives money to protect that threatened species. The label which