Haute Concept

The Wall Street Journal reports on the upcoming launch of Thom Browne’s collection for Brooks Brothers.

The collaboration will result in Black Fleece, a line which will retail about 30-40% higher than regular Brooks Brothers clothing. The line is part of Brooks Brothers effort to appeal to a “new generation” and tap the market of younger professionals with an eye toward style.

While most pieces are cut slimmer and less conservative than traditional Brooks Brothers clothing it is very toned down from the theatrics of Mr. Browne’s presentations. It has actual appeal, through the eye trickery of tailoring, of making one appear thinner despite the seeming snugness of the suits.

Black Fleece will also be Mr. Browne’s first foray into women’s wear making up, “sixty percent of the collection”.

Other notable changes for the generational brand will be a massive print advertising campaign, which will be the largest in the brands 189-year history. According to the Journal the ad campaign is:

“estimated to cost $7 million, is packaged in six-to-24 page spreads that begin with traditional Brooks Brothers clothes, such as ready-to-wear suits ranging up to $1,900, and end with two facing pages featuring models in $2,700 suits designed by Mr. Browne, with his signature fitted style. The tagline on those pages, ‘Style For A New Generation,’ is a play on the store’s longtime slogan, ‘Generations of Style.’ “

Judging by the growing appeal of Mr. Browne’s eponymous line in high-end department stores, mixed with the recent success of other designer collaborations, this union should be a success. But only time will tell.

Brooks Brothers Tries Hip New Line: Will It Suit? [WSJ]

The S/S 08 collection for Lanvin can be summed up as soft elegant reflection.

Designer Alber Elbaz presented a wardrobe to be used together. The collection came across as refined elegance. The clothes and look of the collection was delicate with shimmering fluid movement.

Each article of clothing came through like a soft breeze. The looks were extremely light weight.

The color palette was equally light and fresh with whites and tans ruling the runway while black helped anchor the collection.

There was a sense of luxury done with an easy, carefree hand.

Photo Credit: Marcio Madeira for Men.Style.com

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The S/S 08 Comme Des Garcon collection was an experiment in layering

Designer Rei Kawakubo sent every look down the runway with a play on 3’s. The triple layering techniques employed by the directional label were striking. Kawakubo manged to pull off the extreme layering without adding bulk to the silhouette.

The smallest shrunken jackets and shirts were layered on top of medium sized ones with the largest jackets on the bottom layer. Cuffs were cut at 3 different lengths as well.

The layering element permeated through jacket, coats, shirts and vests.

Almost every look was accompanied by shorts cut at knee or cropped pants.

Photo Credit: Marcio Madeira for Men.Style.com

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For S/S 08 Paul Smith gave a collection that morphed from basic cream to full on color and abstract patterns.

Known for his signature use of stripes and color he started the collection of with a calm creamy palette that soon introduced hints of color building up to full on showers of color by the shows end.

Many printed jackets and pants formed the basis of the collection. Five button jackets with piping and raised prominent lapels stood out.

There was a sense of mixing formality with a healthy dose of humour.

A mix of abstract patterns on sweaters, polos and tanks was also present.

Photo Credit: Marcio Madeira for Men.Style.com

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