Joseph Abboud to Become Creative Director for Lord & Taylor

Joseph Abboud is set to become the creative director of the men’s store at Lord & Taylor. The collection which is exclusive to Lord & Taylor will include sportswear, tailored garments and accessories will debut Fall of 2008.

According to DNR:

“The 181-year-old department store is in the midst of a massive campaign to modernize and update its image, and the revamping of the men’s department is a significant piece of that strategy. In addition to the association with Abboud, other changes include a slew of new resources—from Hugo Boss and G-Star to Triple Five Soul—as well as merchandising upgrades.”

 

These new changes should breathe new life into the department store and bring in new customers. The new vendors will bring fresh life to the department store.

We can’t wait for the changes to take effect. We walked into Lord & Taylor last season and walked out without purchasing anything…or wanting to.

These new changes will have us in the store for sure. It will bring a nice mix of classic labels mixed with cutting edge labels.

In addition to this Abboud has been busy with his new label ‘jaz‘ and designing for N.F.L. coaches.

 

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Abboud to Direct Men’s Design at L&T [DNR]

Haute Pick: Junya Watanabe Leather Motorcycle Jacket

This motorcycle jacket from Junya Watanabe’s Fall 2007 biker inspired collection is now available.

The collar, belt and zipper have been retooled making the jacket distinctive from other motorcycle jackets.

A motorcycle jacket is a great peice to be in a guy’s wardrobe and this jacket should last for seasons to come.

Barneys New York

New York Fashion Week: Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring Summer 2008 Runway Review

For S/S ‘08 the Marc by Marc Jacobs collection was a study in symmetry.

Designer Marc Jacobs (who also juggles roles as designer of his signature collection and as creative director of Louis Vuitton) brought a whimsical fantasy of doubles to his presentation.

Everything had a counterpart as garments came together that were half blazer and half motorcycle jacket. Different tones came together in the same garments. Jacobs brought forth a duality that distinguishes this collection from the other S/S ‘08 collections.

Whether the garments translate to sales at retail level remains to be seen. But the demand for the accessories should be strong, from colorfully bold shoes, to polka dot print ties to colorful standout belt buckles.

Photo credit: Marcio Madeira for Men.Style.com

[source]

From Runway to the Street!

The major influences from the runways are always reflected in the streets by being mixed with individuals personal style. In “From Runway to the Street” we compare street looks with runway looks and visually examine how stylish guys interpret the current trends.

STRIPES

Marc by Marc Jacobs Fall 2007 (photo credit: FirstView for New York Magazine)

 

 

 

Prince St. & Wooster St., SoHo

Prince St. & Wooster St., SoHo

Prince St. & Wooster St., SoHo

Prince St. & Wooster St., SoHo

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New York Fashion Week: Michael Bastian Spring Summer 2008 Runway Review

For S/S ‘08 Michael Bastion presented a collection that perfectly suits the contemporary American man.

Having previously worked as men’s fashion director for Bergdorf Goodman, Michael Bastion comes with a wealth of knowledge of what is being offered by labels and what is being bought by men. Bastian also currently serves as creative director of Bill Blass menswear in addition to his eponymous line.

But his namesake label Michael Bastion is set to very well become a icon in American menswear. This collection is the true sense of collection covering every aspect a man would need to take him through the season, from sportswear to formal attire.

His take on classic American looks kept them modern without being overtly trendy. Bastian runs the gamut of looks that will take a man from day to evening. Every base is covered in a fresh way that prevents it from being overly fussy. The collection has a relaxed beachy feel, that allow guys to get in …with minimum fanfare.

Bastian mixed sportswear pieces with tailored pieces in what has come to be recognized as his signature look.

The looks give a casual appearance that is distinctively contemporary. A major component of the collection were shorts. They came in many cuts from cutoffs to distinctive joggers to pants that change to shorts.

Knits were another highlight of the collection. One standout was knit blazer, almost a cardigan with the cut of a jacket. Other pieces that stood out were a belted cardigan and one particular pullover with playful takes on cuffs.

A color palette of soft gray tones grounded the collection.

If we had to chose just one collection for all of our looks in the Spring and Summer of 2008 this collection is a VERY STRONG contender.

Photo credit: Michael Bastian via Men.Style.com

[source]

Haute Links

John Bartlett opens store in Greenwich Village.

Karen Murphy becomes president of Nautica men’s sportswear and Nautica Jeans Co..

French Connection suffers from poor menswear sales.

Retail sales of apparel and accessories fall in August.

New York Fashion Week: John Varvatos Spring Summer 2008 Runway Review

For S/S ‘08 John Varvatos presented a collection based in bohemianism.

The designer stayed in touch with the uber masculine looks that have become his trademark.

Varvatos is for the man who cares about how he looks but doesn’t want to admit to caring about fashion.

The collection featured loose fitting, roomy pants. Lapels on coats and vests were wide and folded over in exaggerated proportions. When scarves weren’t draped around necks, they were fashioned as belts in the show.

A limited palette of color included grays, whites and browns.

Photo credit: Marcio Madeira for Men.Style.com

[source]

New York Fashion Week: 3.1 Philip Lim Spring Summer 2008 Runway Review

For S/S ‘08 the 3.1 Phillip Lim collection presented relaxed playful tailoring.

The runway presentation was presented alongside women’s wear looks.

Jackets and shorts were paired in easy carefree ways. Gladiator sandals were ubiquitous on the models. Ascots and rolled ankles allowed for a laid back chic look.

Bold yellows and reds contrasted with black and beige tones.

Photo credit: IMAXTREE for New York Magazine

[source]

Drum Pants

Check out these drum pants that turn the wearer into a instrument and musician. These pants have touch sensitive patches that allow various percussion sounds to come forth. While we’re not sure if these will catch on, it is an interesting cross of form and function, along the lines of iApparel.

via Coolhunting

From Runway to the Street!

The major influences from the runways are always reflected in the streets by being mixed with individuals personal style. In the first of a new series we give you “From Runway to the Street”. We will compare street looks with runway looks and visually examine how stylish guys interpret the current trends.

CARDIGANS

 

Charles Nolan Fall 2007 (photo credit: FirstView for New York Magazine)

 

 

Prince St. & Wooster St., SoHo

 

Prince St. & Wooster St., SoHo

 

Prince St. & Wooster St., SoHo

 

Prince St. & Wooster St., SoHo

 

 

 

 

The New Look In New York

A new and distinct menswear market has emerged from New York.

In an article in Old Gray Lady, David Colman reports about the exciting shift that has transformed the image of American menswear. For decades there were two schools of thought:

1. Classic preppy style a la Ralph Lauren
2. Stylish, fashion conscious European labels

You were either enrolled in one school or the other. Men wouldn’t mix the looks.

“ ‘Never’, said Tom Kalenderian, the vice president for men’s wear at Barneys New York. ‘When you came into Barneys, you either went to the American House or the International House. You would never have considering mixing the brand lists of the two departments. It would have been very confusing.’ ”

Colman dissects how New York has stepped back up with designers from Thom Browne to Adam Lippes satisfying a market including stylish American men as well as their European counterparts.

This is great news to us and part of the reason menswear has been so exciting the past few years. Instead of sending Ralph Lauren clones down the runways, each designer is bringing a distinct flavour and aesthetic to their collections.

We hope this shift will continue well into the future.

How New York Got Its Look Back [NYT]

New York Fashion Week: Duckie Brown Spring Summer 2008 Runway Review

Haute Concept Men’s Fashion Blog-The Menswear Fashion and Style Magazine & Blog

For S/S ‘08 Duckie Brown continued to present great clothes tailored in their own wildly creative vision.

The duo behind the label are Steven Cox and Daniel Silver. Their collection for next spring presents a soft, refined luxury. Relaxed looks include trouser with enough room to be ultra comfortable while avoiding an overtly baggy label.

The duo had fun with color and print. Yellow and orange coats made outfits pop, while floral prints seemed crazy when paired together, but oddly enough worked when trousers were paired with a red tank top in one particular look.

The use of bold graphics was seen in one black and white outfit with color coming through an orange bag.

Hoodies were also a highlight with one hoodie stretched wide across the neck and shoulders and another in roomy gold fabric.

Photo credit: FIRSTVIEW for New York Magazine

Source

Haute Thought of the Day

“All truly wise thoughts have been thoughts already thousands of times; but to make them truly ours, we must think them over again honestly, till they take root in our personal experience.”

– Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

Tom Ford For Men Ad Campaign…is racy!!!

Tom Fords new fragrance “Tom Ford For Men”, is definitely, unabashedly being marketed to straight men.

The images which were photographed by Terry Richardson and feature racy images of a naked woman “holding” the cologne with various body parts. We’ll have to wait and see if any magazines pick up the campaign or if Tom Ford will release more edited mainstream pics.

You can see one image after the jump. (NSFW!) Read more

New York Fashion Week: Rag & Bone Spring Summer 2008 Runway Review

Rag & Bone is the collaborative effort of designers David Neville and Marcus Wainwright, who received a C.F.D.A. award this past summer for emerging talent.

Their S/S ‘08 presentation included the duo’s take on classics in a utilitarian way.

The color palette is monochromatic with beige thrown in.

The collection included safari jackets, bowling shirts, polo shirts and suits. Each article has been updated through the duo’s tailoring which gives basics a clean modern look.

The striped cardigan tailored in a relaxed way was top on our picks list.

Photo credit: IMAXTREE for New York Magazine

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Style Icon: Justin Timberlake at the 2007 MTV Video Music Awards

Justin Timberlake was a definite style icon at last night’s MTV 2007 Video Music Awards.

Despite the boring, awkward format of the show the menswear was up to par starting with Timberlake.

Changing into a variety of outfits, he looked great in wearing the current trends in menswear.

During his performance on the mainstage Justin donned a light colored vest and trouser combo with white button up and tie.  The vest, or waistcoat, has taken the place of the blazer craze of 4 years ago.

For the most part the vest can be worn the same way you’d wear a blazer.  Pair it up with a hot t-shirt and jeans or keep it classy with trousers and a button up.

Timberlake’s look was clean and tailored, which is key in pulling of the look.  If you can’t get designer don’t worry, go low end and make sure you tailor the shish out of the vest.  Justin made the current trend look comfortable and hip.

For his acceptance for Male Artist of the Year award  Timberlake donned a slate, fitted suit.  The suit appeared to have incorporated the current trend of techno fabrics without going overboard with the sheen.

The suit was fitted and slim without going to extremes of the fitted narrow craze.

All in all these two looks are definitely ones that we’d include in our wardrobe for the season.

New York Fashion Week: Thom Browne Spring Summer 2008 Runway Review

For S/S ‘07 Thom Browne continued pushing the envelope with his directional take on menswear.

A beach themed collection mixed tailored pieces with sports wear pieces. Tailored jackets were paired with board shorts.

The designer used short-sleeved suit jackets to create a new lines in the look of the outfits.

Browne made use of strong clean lines and his signature fitted shrunken silhouettes. Plaid print was used in suits and many looks included suits with cardigans and vests.

Browne designs to please himself and his pieces are for specific customers. His collections are definitely not suited to fit everyone.

This can be seen in his suits paired with extremely short shorts. We almost thought they were hot pants for guys. Shorts were so high-cut that they were hidden under jackets and capes (again…not for everyone) creating a new leg baring silhouette.

However Thom Browne does know how to cut suits and they do look good on men. This can be seen through his collaboration to Brooks Brothers to embrace a wider audience through a more toned down Browne aesthetic. Most men opt to not go full out Browne by avoiding his signature high waters but rather keeping pants from the designer hitting the shoe.

Photo credit: IMAXTREE for New York Magazine

[source]

New York Fashion Week: Band of Outsiders Spring Summer 2008 Runway Review

For Spring/Summer ‘08 Band of Outsiders presented their collection aboard a boat.

The presentation put the full focus on the clothing which consisted of tailored pieces.

The S/S ‘08 collection included many jackets paired with shorts which has been a strong trend started this past spring season.

Designer Scott Sternberg used no excess fabrics.  Silhouettes consisted on a shrunken type, slim and fitted to the body.  Ties were also narrow.

However Sternberg seemed to be able to incorporate the shrunken style without going to extremes.  This makes the pieces easier to wear by more people.

Photo credit: IMAXTREE for New York Magazine

[source]

New York Fashion Week: ADAM By Adam Lippes Spring Summer 2008 Runway Review

The Adam by Adam Lippes collection has been a fast growing label since it’s birth in 2004. The label is designed by Adam Lippes who is a seasoned industry player having worked at Polo/Ralph Lauren and Oscar de la Renta.

After a few changes to the name, which previously included Adampluseve and Adam+Eve, the designer finally settled on ADAM by Adam Lippes. The new name is more than welcome after the confusion we were met with when people asked about his articles of clothing and thought it was related to the, er, adult toy store.

The label immediately surged to the top of our favorite designer list after buying just a few items and being extremely pleased with the purchase. The clothing is tailored in such a way that fits simply great and made with fabrics that come to life through their movement.

For Spring/Summer ‘08 the collection stayed in the direction of contemporary luxurious sportswear. The runway presentation was staged with men and women walking the runway together.

Lippes made use of light-color, light-weight fabrics.

Well tailored, well proportioned classic sportswear pieces were made from luxurious materials. Pants were flat-front and fitted without being excessively skinny. Shorts were above the knee in keeping with the current trend seen heavily this past spring.

A soft, subtle color palette of white, black, greys and beige was used allowing a classic collection that will be able to get alot of use.

Photo credit: IMAXTREE for New York Magazine

[source]

Haute Thought of the Day

“Women thrive on novelty and are easy meat for the commerce of fashion. Men prefer old pipes and torn jackets.”

–Anthony Burgess

Designer Valentino to Retire

Legendary designer Valentino, 75, has announced his resignation from the fashion company he founded.

The announcement comes after his recent 45th anniversary blowout in Rome and on the launch of New York Fashion Week. It will certainly have the fashion set talking all week during the collections.

The designer will show two more shows before his bow out, a ready to wear this October and a haute couture show in January.

Valentino said in a statement, “My future will be filled with new interests and challenges…Some may be linked to fashion, as I have a strong desire to create and support institutions to promote the study of fashion design, and to preserve the history of the art of fashion.”

The designer founded his business in the early 1960’s and has rose and stand ahead of the fashion pack since, staying relevant from the ’60’s to the present.

Valentino to Quit as Fashion Designer [NYT]

N.F.L. Coaches to Wear Suit and Tie on Gameday

The N.F.L. has passed a ruling allowing coaches to wear suit and tie on gameday.

Coach Mike Nolan of the San Francisco 49ers, has been trying to get such a regulation passed for the past two years since joining the team as head coach.

Due to the leagues exclusive contract that coaches wear Reebok products on the sidelines, the athletic company will team up with Joseph Abboud to produce a special line.

DNR reports that, “The collection of custom Joseph Abboud suits, sport coats, trousers, shirts and ties, called the Coaches Collection, combines the label’s half-canvased construction and Italian fabrics with Reebok stretch technology and wicking.”

This decision fits into the return of tailored clothing in general amongst menswear. It also harks back to the younger days of football when coaches, including Nolan’s father Dick Nolan, would routinely wear suits to games.

JA Apparel to Dress NFL Coaches [DNR]

Fashion Week Hits New York

After the Labor Day weekend, the chaos of New York Fashion Week begins and we lurve it!

Underwritten by head sponsor Mercedes-Benz, the week will kick off on September 5th and run through September 12th.

We will be bringing the reviews of the current collections as quick as we can.

The collections to look out for include Adam by Adam Lippes, Z Zegna, Thom Browne and others each presenting their own take on the current trends.

Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week [website]

Haute Thought of the Day

“There is nothing which we receive with so much reluctance as advice.”

–Joseph Addison

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