Burberry Taps Hipness

Burberry, the British luxury company, has thrown itself into the 21st century modernizing it’s roots to suit a newer, fresher customer.

Their recent party for new fragrance “The Beat” was a study in how a staid brand can revolutionize itself to fit the current tastes.

On Fashion Inc. Lisa Rachal, an analyst with Redburn Partners, gives her view of the brand.

“Some industry experts feel the brand has reached a different stage in its evolution this year, and I would have to agree. And I think last night’s fragrance launch was yet another sign of Creative Director Christopher Bailey’s objective to push the Burberry brand into more modern and culturally relevant territory, whilst making sure to remain firmly within the brand’s DNA.”

Christopher Bailey is set to push the brand into new territory while staying aligned with the brands roots. This can be seen in his recent runway shows in which Burberry staples such as the trench was remade in vibrant modern colors.

Bailey is trying to make the brand fresh and innovative. He’s been experimenting with techno-fabrics. PVC and neoprene was heavily used in their latest Spring Summer 08 presentation. These techno-fabrics are remixing the look of classic staple articles of clothing.

According to FASHION INC., fashion photographer Mario Testino said: “I immediately realised that Burberry has reached another stage in its history. Christopher Bailey has taken Burberry into a very modern dimension. It was crucial that the advertising campaign expressed this new energy. Talking to Christopher, we agreed that the look we wanted to achieve was a mix of Cecil Beaton imagery and the Sixties feeling in London, reinterpreted with the people and the vigour of today. The new swinging London.”

View From an Analyst: The Burberry Party [Fashion Inc.]

Photo credit: Don Ashby & Olivier Claisse

Knit Picking with Robin Givhan

We tend to stay out of the political arena here at Haute Concept. But when others are talking about it we may lend an ear. This happened a few days ago with Robin Givhan, she of the sartorial beat for the Washington Post, not to be confused with the actress.

Robin Givhan handed a sartorial smackdown to John McCain for his dress method on the campaign trail. She specifically goes after his sweaters, which seem ill-suited on the senator.

“Sweaters — crew-necks and cardigans — have warm and kindly connotations. Public figures, male ones at any rate, use them to soften their public image or to appear more lovable or paternal. Dan Rather wore sweaters on the air during his anchorman days when he was trying to be cuddly. Jimmy Carter was a sweater man. Occasionally, Captain Kangaroo wore a cardigan.

“Privately, McCain very well may be sweet and fuzzy. But that is not the impression he gives in public. During a recent debate, his head looked as though it just might explode in anger during a brawl with Mitt Romney over waterboarding. Cranial eruptions and crew-neck sweaters don’t go together.

“McCain has a dress-shirt problem compounding the sweater conundrum. His collars always appear a smidge too small. They fit so snugly that they give the impression that his head is caught in a vise. Add the layer of a sweater and McCain looks as if he is engaged in a wrestling match with his attire.

[….] “There is an uncomfortable Peter Pan quality to McCain’s clothing, a sense that he hasn’t quite moved beyond the affectations — as well as the collar size — of his youth. Is there Winnie the Pooh embroidered on those sweaters? Is his name scribbled on the label in Magic Marker?”

Oh. Snap.

Picking Knits [Washington Post]

What the Doctor ordered? Are Doc Martens making a comeback

Dr. Martens, the chunky, clunky rubber soled boots of decades past are poised for a comeback. Or so thinks Old Gray Lady.

The iconic work boots which came to symbolize the counter-culture are aiming to recruit a new generation of free-thinkers. The seemingly anti-fashion boots have become a design classic worn by many groups. The New York Times reports:

“Dr. Martens showed up at New York’s fall Fashion Week in collections by Yohji Yamamoto, who is collaborating with the brand to create a limited-edition line, and by Chloé, which paired chunky boots incongruously with willowy dresses.

“They are kind of antifashion fashion,” said Kimberly Barta, vice president for marketing at AirWair International’s American operation in Portland, Ore. “We were a practical, hard-wearing, all-purpose work boot before we were ever picked up by the youth culture, and in time we became a design classic.”

An Antifashion Classic Returns [NYT]

Hermes Holiday Gift Guide Video

WSJ’s Ray Smith visits Hermes on Wall Street. Robert Chavez, CEO of Hermes, highlights some of the store’s holiday gifts for men. Video here.

Luxury Labels Woo the Men

The Wall Street Journal has an interesting article about the increased effort of luxury labels going after the male market.

Labels such as Louis Vuitton, Lilly Pulitzer and Harry Winston, which are typically associated with the female set, are seeing the appeal of targeting the evolving male’s sense of style.

“The labels say one of their ultimate goals is to get men to shop more like women — making more impulse purchases and being open to items they didn’t intend to buy when they walked into the store. Many men nowadays know what they’re looking for when they step into a store and are unlikely to pick up anything extra.”

Getting men to shop like women is obvious for the added benefit to the bottom line.

The shopping habits of men have changed in the past decade. The rise of the metrosexual has shown men that their peers are going out shopping and enjoying it.

“Men are also doing more of their own clothing shopping. Last year, 75% of men bought most of their own clothes, compared with 52% in 1995, according to Marshal Cohen, NPD’s chief industry analyst.”

Men are developing a more confident sense of style. They no longer need women to select their clothing. They are showing that they don’t mind choosing their own articles of clothing and labels are readily seeking this male customer out.

Male Bonding [WSJ]

Haute Links

Cerruti to oufit AS Monaco soccer team.

Mulberry opens first men’s store.

H&M sales are flat despite the Roberto Cavalli hoola.

Chloe becomes the first fashion house to release a “tailored version of its website” to enhance the phone.

Uniqlo Spring Summer 2008 Preview

Uniqlo has released images of their upcoming S/S 08 collection.

The Japanese fast fashion retailer caused a stir in the NY retail scene when it opened it’s flagship store here. The retailer offers everything from basics to unique takes on current trends. And they do everything with modest prices. More pics after the jump. Read more

Is Hedi Slimane Returning to LVMH to Design a Signature Line?

Will Slimane be returning to the stable of designers at LVMH?

That’s the question being asked in this weeks DNR.  The star designer, who left LVMH this past year as head designer of Dior Homme, has wanted his own label for a while.  Now may be his chance to get it.

We think a Hedi Slimane label will  do good business.  The designer became legendary during his tenure at Dior Homme.  His slim fitting aesthetic tapped into the collective conscious of many men from yound to old, as Lagerfeld went on a diet to fit into on of Slimane’s signature suits.

Slimane has brought fresh appeal to the menswear market and fashion week.  His shows were the highlight event of the week, with everyone, including rock stars and celebrities clamoring to get in.

It will be interesting to see this develop.  The designer is said to have maintained good ties with LVMH and it’s chairman Bernard Arnault.

Slimane Talking to LVMH About Possible Return [DNR]

 

2007 Lunchbox Auction

So we’d like to take a moment to get word out about a great cause.

The 2007 Lunchbox Auction is a benefit for two hunger-relief organizations, the Food Bank for New York City and The Lunchbox Fund of South Africa.

The auction brings forth over 100 icons from the fashion, Read more

DNR Inaugurates Annual Menswear Awards

DNR has held their first annual DNR Menswear awards, naming Tom Ford “Person of the Year” and Dolce & Gabbana “Style Icons” for 2007.  The winners were recently featured in the menswear magazine and honored at an awards ceremony held last week.  Other honorees included Brooks Brothers and Thom Browne for “Collaboration of the Year”.

John Birmingham, editor in chief of DNR, said in a press statement, “After covering men’s wear for more than a century, DNR presents a first: our inaugural yearend awards.  From Tom, Thom and Tomas to  Brooks and Band of Outsiders, we honor 2007’s most noteworthy accomplishments in design, retail marketing and entrepreneurship.”

source

Sharkah Chakra Eco-Friendly Denim Jeans

We were recently pleasantly surprised to learn of a very “green” clothing company that keeps it hip.

Sharkah Chakra has a simple philosophy of making the world’s best hand-made denim while staying true to the age old adage of “treating others as yo wish to be treated.” And this belief is seen in all phases of the development process.

Each pair of this hand made denim is unique. The care that goes into these jeans is outstanding.

Starting with the fair-trade cotton fields in West Africa, the company uses organic cotton to form the basis of the luxury softness. No chemicals are used in the cotton, making it good for the farmer, the land and your skin.

The dying process does not use the synthetic indigo that most jean companies use today. Instead they use real indigo straight from the plant.

Staying in sync with the ultimate care, the denim is then woven by hand into selvedge, the only denim of choice for aficionados. An added step of the intimacy involved in the process is the signatures of the master weaver on the inside cuff of the jean. This is located near the traditional woven red and white edge, the tell-tale sign of selvedge.

Six men’s styles are available on the website. Women’s styles are also available in case you need something for the impending holidays.

Sharkah Chakra [website]

First image via Cool Hunter

Gloves Are Back!

Suzy Menkes of IHT reports on the trend of gloves as the accessory designers are feeling at the moment.

“After years of neglecting cold weather accessories and spurning gloves as a winter necessity, fur at your finger tips is back in fashion.

“And not just for women.

“Burberry offered mighty male mittens as worn by Arctic explorers in the distant era when the company served the military and the requirements of extreme sports.

“Others have taken the fur glove and elongated it as an elegant, elbow-length accessory. Chinchilla or mink gauntlets rise high; while silver fox trims circle the wrist of leather gloves.”

Gloves are back, and not just for women [IHT]

Photo credit: Firstview for NY Magazine

Andy Warhol x Pepe Jeans London Denim Collection

Pepe Jeans London is using Andy Warhol as the inspiration of a new denim collection.

The 250-piece collection will include men’s and women’s looks and be based around denim casualwear and accessories. The collection will bow in Florence this January at trade show, Pitti Uomo. Sadly the collection will be available only in Europe, which means damage to our wallets with the euro being what it is.

Interestingly, the collection will consist of two distinct lines called Pop and Factory. Pop will be based on the iconic artist’s “pop” artwork, while the Factory line will be based on Warhol’s unique personal style.

The full collection should hit shelves in August for fall ‘08.

[WWD]

David Beckham’s Ad for Giorgio Armani

David Beckham has the internet all abuzz with this shot for the soccer star’s ad for Giorgio Armani.

The three year deal is worth an estimated $20 million and will be supersized on billboards internationally.

Beckam, 32, said, “I first met Mr Armani quite a few years ago while I was working with the England team when he designed our World Cup suit.

Armani is pleased as well saying, “David is truly a modern day icon in that his fame extends well beyond the realm of soccer. He is considered as one of the world’s most talented soccer players and a former captain of his national team, but his image has come to stand for more than this….He represents a notion of modern masculinity: as a sports hero, husband and father. He is also a man with a great sense of style. There was a time when soccer players were not always considered to be fashion role models. David Beckham has helped to change that.”

David Beckham shows off Golden-bulge in Armani ad [Daily Telegraph]

American Eagle Outfitters Plans NYC Flagship

American Eagle Outfitters, the go to choice for many teens and young adults, is opening a NYC flagship in Times Square.The retailer signed a lease with developer Jeff Sutton and REIT SL Green.

The store will be located at 46th Street and Broadway at the site of the legendary Howard Johnson’s restaurant site at 1551 Broadway. The space will be a four level 25,000 square feet retail teen haven.

via Forbes

ARMREVOLUTION: It’s a Movement!

ARMREVOLUTION has announced the launch of their new e-commerce site.

ARMREVOLUTION is a new movement that aims to herald in radical change in men’s luxury accessories. The company has elevated cufflink design and function, to the level of watches and cars, which go through constant innovation.

Through a fusion of architectural design, luxury and accessories the company has created a product it calls “arm architecture” with cufflinks that incorporate innovative closure systems. The new site will allow a wider array of consumers to purchase the companies products which were previously available in NY and London by appointment only.

The company has introduced it’s Perpetual Series Collection, consisting of six unique patent pending designs made of Japanese steel created out of a London based design firm. Each pair comes in magnetic acrylic packaging including leather carrying cases.

The company is striving to push the limits of product and service experience. Each product is individually numbered and entitles the purchaser to be member, thus receiving access to exclusive members-only gatherings. This changes the consumer experience allowing them to be taken care of through the purchase of the product and well after as a member.

Anthony Hayword, founder and Chairman, states in a press release, “The brief to our London design team was to completely rethink the way that a French cuff shirt is attached at the wrist and I’m very proud of what they came up with. Our goal from the start was for our designs to be so innovative that we would be able to patent them….Innovation is key to every aspect of ARMREVOLUTION-through our products, packaging, events and customers service we aim to be different.”

Prices ranging from $695 to $750.

ARMREVOLUTION [website]

Avoid Getting Scammed This Holiday Season!

 

The Wall Street Journal Has provided us with some “Tips For a Scam-Free Holiday.”As we go out shopping this holiday season, everyone should be cautious and follow these simple tips to avoid a nightmare holiday.

Included tips are:

1. Update your security software
2. Determine if the store is legit
3. Avoid crazy deals
4. Try a temporary card number
5. Verify your bank’s emails

Tips for a Scam-Free Holiday [WSJ]

Critical Shopper Mike Albo Reviews Billionaire Boys Club/Ice Cream

 

In this weeks edition of Critical Shopper, reporter Mike Albo reviews the new Billionaire Boys Club/ Ice Cream boutique that’s recently opened in SoHo.The mecca of high-end hip-hop clothing was opened by Pharrell Williams, of the Neptunes, and Nigo, of A Bathing Ape. There is cult-status surrounding the brand as young streetwear fans obsessively hunt down the limited edition articles of “high-end luxury sportswear”.

Rabid fans and sneaker heads go wild over the cartoonishly colorful streetwear clothing that looks good on the young people who can pull it off.

Albo reports, “Most of the guys walking around the store know how to wear these clothes and look great, especially a man I saw in a simple blue BBC T-shirt and wide-legged jeans, arms and neck sprinkled with tattoos, wearing big diamond earrings, Nelly-style. According to a quick survey of friends who can actually pull off wearing these things, they tend to be of high quality, and the shirts survive frequent washings.”

BBC/Ice Cream

456 West Broadway (near Houston Street); (212) 777-2225

Charge That Tee On My Platinum [NYT]

The Weakened Dollar; Stronger Euro Helps the NY Retail Scene

“There’s no question that [the tourists] are helping our New York performance by a few percentage points….If you walk the New York store, you hear the number of foreign accents. We’ve seen people walking around the store with empty suitcases and heard about a group of women from Iceland who chartered a jet to come and shop our new shoe floor. The U.S. is on sale. It’s a bargain for the European customer.”

–Stephen I. Sadove, chairman and chief executive officer of Saks Inc to WWD

Despite the sluggish economy and the housing slump, the New York retail scene is booming.  Thanks to tourists, who are armed with a strong euro and a voracious appetite for apparel, NY retailers are surviving through the wariness of domestic consumers.

Just as Jay-Z is throwing euros instead of dollars in his latest video, the strong euro is encouraging tourists to come to the city and buy, buy, buy. The strength of the euro is turning deals into steals for the foreign customer.

This should help the retail scene in New York, which has already suffered from unseasonably warm temperatures earlier in the season. An extended Indian Summer left many New Yorkers getting more mileage out of their summer gear, instead of hitting the stores building a fall wardrobe.

Foreign travelers seem to be readily stepping up to the plate, keeping sales of clothing buoyant. Tourists are not just heading to the fast-fashion meccas but to high-end retailers like Bloomingdales, Saks Fifth Avenue and Barney’s New York.

Hooray for the Weak Dollar: Flood of Tourists Boosts Retailers’ Holiday Traffic [WWD]

Haute Links: Shop Status Edition

 

Evisu’s planned SoHo store has been nixed. [The Shophound]

House of Zegna concept store opens in Milan. [Wallpaper]

ADAM is set to open in the Meatpacking District [Racked]

NYT: “If the Shoe Fits, Wear It. If Not, Design One That Does.

The New York Times has an article about the presence of footwear websites that allow customers to create their own products.

Companies such as vans.com and nikeid.com are allowing consumers to choose colors, materials and designs that fit them.

Customization and adding your own unique spin on things is what the people are gravitating to at the moment. Savvy consumers want to stand out from other people and they will go that extra step to be the only one with a certain item.

“The biggest attraction is the ability to shock…You want a pair that people notice so they ask you: ‘Where did you get those?’” said hip-hop disc jockey known as Clark Kent, of Brooklyn. Kent has designed over 350 pairs on the nikeid.com site.

These sites allow anyone to be the designer of their footwear. You can read more here.

If the Shoe Fits, Wear It. If Not, Design One That Does [NYT]

Supreme Luxury Moscow 2007: Tom Ford

Suzy Menkes interviews Tom Ford, creator of the Tom Ford Group at the Supreme Luxury Conference in Moscow.

Smart Dressing: How Techno & Synthetic Fabrics Are Changing Our Lives

We recently came across an interesting article in Cosmos Magazine about “Life In 2020“. The article depicts how very different life may be in only a short time from now. A section on smart dressing stuck out to us and we wanted to share it with you.

“…Scientists are working on materials that will not only change our homes but will transform the way we dress through the creation of ‘intelligent clothes’. Special fabrics, fitted with monitors, will study our health throughout the day, while we sleep, work and exercise. For example, at the University of Wollongong, south of Sydney, researchers have created a fabric that emits a groaning sound to warn sportsmen and women if they are stretching or moving in ways that could harm them.

“Another concept being developed by scientists involves embedding clothes with mobile phone chips. ‘The idea is that if you get injured out hill-walking or skiing, sensors will detect physiological and temperature changes to your body,’ says Jane McCann of Derby University in England. ‘The garment will alert the mobile phone chip to call the nearest hospital.’”

Synthetic fabrics are changing the way we live. Our lives are being altered by new synthetic, ‘techno-fabrics’ the same way in which technology is altering other areas of our lives at the moment.

Clothing, one of life basic necessities, is being modernized and changed to better adapt to current times. These new man-made fabrics have progressed to being able to be incorporated with natural fabrics to enhance and change their properties. In some cases these techno-fabrics are standing on their own.The website for the Winchester School of Art at the University of Southampton states, “These textiles are entering museum collections as examples of fine art, haute couture and high-tech sportswear as well as innovative medical and industrial equipment.”

As we develop these synthetic fabrics further, basic tasks in life such as getting dressed will change as well. The way we relate to clothing and it’s innate functionality will enhance. We see this happening throughout menswear from Calvin Klein to Nike.

 

These materials have already filtered many areas of clothing. The July 23, 2007 issue of DNR states that, “New synthetic fabrics invaded virtually every runway, and not just in outerwear but across every category….Synthetics have been around for decades, but never before have they held up such a big mirror to our digitized, wireless, data-saturated era. These looks are not for the timid, at least for now. This movement, driven by innovation, is unlikely to fade away.”

Technology has drastically altered our life since 1994, with the ubiquity of mobile phones and the internet. Anyone see those relics on the street called pay phones? Would you have dared thought of a device as innovative as the iPhone only 13 years ago?

Imagine the change and impact to our lives of another 13 years in 2020.

 

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[images via DNR]

Separate New York Fashion Week for Men???

Can New York handle a dedicated menswear fashion week? That’s the question that seems to floating around recently as it may be a possibility this January.

DNR has reported that IMG, organizer of New York Fashion Week, and ENK International, “have partnered in an effort to create a unified and vibrant men’s fashion and market week. Their plan calls for encouraging men’s designers to stage runway shows during the traditional men’s market weeks in mid-January and July—when ENK’s Collective and Blue shows, as well as Advanstar Communications’ Project, are held—rather than during the currently sanctioned fashion weeks in February and September, which are dominated by women’s shows.”

This is an interesting development and we would like to see it happen. Milan and Paris already devote dedicated weeks to menswear. New York as one of the fashion capitals of the world should have dedicated menswear weeks also to better serve the market.

It would seem to benefit the designers, buyers and all parties involved to have the fashion shows and the trade shows together. Luis Padilla, president of ENK