LE COQ SPORTIF PRESENTS COLLECTION AT NEW YORK MENSWEAR FASHION WEEK

Last week at ENK/IMG Menswear Fashion Week, Le Coq Sportif presented their looks for the upcoming season.

Le Coq Sportiff, which translates as The Sporting Rooster, is an iconic French label dating back to the early 20th century when it was founded by Emile Camuset. The company has a mission to bring the most innovative sportswear apparel and footwear to the market. They bring classic designs updated through modern advancements in fabric technology.

Their recent presentation included covetous sportswear including accessories such as fedora hats and metallic velcro shoes.

One of the standouts are the hooded sweatshirts which incorporate prints from original paintings.

Photo credit: Haute Concept

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ PUTS MENSWEAR LINE ON HOLD

Designer Narciso Rodriguez has put his planned menswear collection on hold.

The acclaimed designer was set to expand to a fully dedicated menswear line to be shown at New York Fashion Week.

After signing a deal with Liz Claiborne last year, his fledgling design house was infused with the money needed for aggressive growth. Rodriguez tells DNR that, “the sheer growth of my company since my partnership with Claiborne is overwhelming in so many areas. We want to do things properly because what we do now is a foundation for the future.”

The designer plans to pick menswear back up as soon as possible. We look forward to it, as the designers menswear efforts to this point have garnered praise for it’s tailoring and craftsmanship.

Narciso’s Men’s Line on Hiatus [DNR]

Earlier

HAUTE LINKS

Kim Jones named creative director for Dunhill. [DNR]

American Express launches online fashion network to cover New York Fashion Week. [Trading Markets]

Take a first look at the Bryant Park tents being built for New York Fashion Week. [Alex Geana]

Miu Miu discontinues menswear. [Rock. The. Trend.]

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK EVENTS: PERONI & VOGUE ITALIA PRESENT: 50 YEARS OF ITALIAN STYLE

Photo credit: L’Uomo Vogue February 1996 by Walter Chin

With the spectacle that is New York Fashion Week right around the corner, we thought it an opportune time to tell you about events going in around the city in celebration of fashion week.

In keeping with the current rage of collaborations, Vogue Italia, the international style bible, has teamed up with Peroni Nastro Azzuro, the premium Italian beer, to produce “50 Years of Italian Style”.

“50 Years of Italian Style” is a retrospective photographic exhibition featuring iconic images of Italian style that spans five decades!

Kicking off during Fashion Week’s opening weekend, the exhibition includes images of iconic menswear from the pages of L’Uomo Vogue, as well other publications including Vogue Italia and Casa Vogue.

Best of all, this exhibition is open to the public, including free admission, allowing everyone to take part in the week’s festivities.

Who: Peroni and Vogue Present: 50 Years of Italian Style

What: Exhibition Viewing

When: Saturday, February 2nd thru Monday, February 4th, 2008

10am to 6pm (except Monday which will be 10am to 3pm)

Where: Twelve 21 (West 21st St. between 5th and 6th Ave.)

Why: To celebrate iconic Italian style!

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: BUCKLER COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW

For Fall/Winter 2008-09 Buckler presented a surrealist collection playing on the label’s Englishman in New York aesthetic.

What designer Andrew Buckler originally started as a denim brand has morphed in a full cult collection mixing British and American sense. The Royal College of Art trained, independent designer sneered at proper etiquette with this Fall/Winter collection which featured the element of surprise and the unexpected juxtaposition of different parallels that haunted the runway.

Darkened hues contrasted with reflective bronzes and coppers, traditional tailoring was placed with the unconventional detailing of bolts and screws and menacing prints were paired with the classic touch of a bowtie.

Buckler challenged the conventional wisdom of the industry blurring the lines with his haunting dreamlike presentation. The dark, gritty vibe was magnified by the smeared black make-up on models, copper chains hanging from fingers and hair deliriously styled to resemble horns.

An analysis of the clothing showed horizontally ribbed sweaters layered with vests, other vests were worn above overcoats and the use of metallic copper fabrics adding to the eccentric mood. The grim, warrior vibe also pushed itself through the use of furs, which were Rescued Vintage Animal Furs (recycled).

A color palette of various blacks came to life through saturated blues, burgundy reds, and bronze.

MORE PICS AFTER THE JUMP! Read more

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: YOKO DEVEREAUX COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW

For Fall/Winter 2008-09 hip Brooklyn-based menswear label Yoko Devereaux presented a collection taking inspiration from the darker side of our culture’s obsession with high society and celebrity.

Presenting at men’s fashion week this past Monday, creative director Andy Salzer titled his collection “Holding Up the Heiress”. The celebrity obsession was added to via the presence of Alan Cumming, Sophia Lamar and Ana Matronic in attendance.
From the opening song of Simian Mobile Disco’s “I’m a Hustler Baby” a masculinity and downtown vibe was infused into the collection. Slim trousers with ankle zippers paired with jersey t-shirts and black leather ties. Short sleeved fleece cardigans had us drooling with the layering possibilities they allowed. Other blazers had slim lapels and were cropped exposing long jersey tee’s underneath.

Meanwhile brown woven shirts with contrasting collars and cuffs and gray ‘pullover’ woven shirts with a hidden plaquet of buttons were part of the labels full woven program.

T-shirts had abstract patterns using different hues of the same color. Other tee’s incorporated leaves, branches, trees and birds into their graphics. All the graphics made use of imagery from the works of artist Charles Lutz.

Andy graciously provided this fashion menswear blog with an after show interview telling us the collection had a “downtown meets uptown” vibe. He spoke with us about his desire to take a Williamsburg guy and dress him up, refine him and present him with clothing that is more socially acceptable to the high society.

Andy spoke of growing up with his customer and giving a guy pieces he can wear out to better high end places. He had a desire with this collection to give his customer more choices in his wardrobe. This was reflected through the use of tweeds, wools and wovens bringing “additional depth to the brand and the collection”.

MORE PICS AFTER THE JUMP! Read more

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: DISTILLED COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW

Distilled presented their Fall/Winter 2008-09 collection on Pier 92 during ENK’s Men’s Fashion Week last week.

Distilled, is a collaboration between former Triple5Soul designer, Matty Merrill and his Stanford friend, Sep Kamvar.

The collection titled Math, Art and Nature, or M.A.N., included familiar preppy collegiate clothing made in unconventional ways. A heavily purple based collection included slim pants, sporty pieces such as varsity coats, plaid sweatshirts with black arms and purple parkas. The clothing is made in San Francisco using high quality fabrics such as pima cotton and lambskin.

The brand has a philosophy of distilling clothing to it’s basic components. After the show, designer Matty Merrill told us Holden Caufield, the protagonist of J.D. Salinger’s “The Catcher in the Rye” was an inspiration for the quirky tailored pieces.

MORE PICS AFTER THE JUMP! Read more

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: CONFERENCE OF BIRDS COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW

Conference of Birds, the debut collection by designer/stylist Andrew Holden premiered last week at New York Menswear Fashion Week.

The designer Andrew Holden spoke with Haute Concept after the show, telling us that the name of the collection comes from a Persian poem about a journey of a group of 30 birds. The poem symbolizes a mythical journey of self-knowledge and a master leading his disciples to enlightenment.

For his first collection of about 32 looks, Holden presented modern silhouettes that combined classic British tailoring with enduring American workwear.

Green jackets were cropped, corduroy vests with shawl collars paired with huge scarves as leather trimming and epaulets were added to other pieces. The collection featured a lot of knits in the form of outerwear, hats and one particular hooded grey cable knit garment. Skinny pants were mixed with tailored jackets and plaid shirts were layered with vests as suspenders nonchalantly hung off of other models.

MORE PICS AFTER THE JUMP! Read more

ENK, IMG MENSWEAR FASHION WEEK DEBUTS

Joining Milan and Paris, New York held a series of men’s fashion shows this past week on January 20th and 21st. Coinciding with ENK’s Blue & Collective trade shows, the event was produced in collaboration with IMG Fashion, the producer of upcoming Mercedes Benz Fashion Week.

Held on Pier 92 in Manhattan, Haute Concept menswear blog was treated to four exciting collections:

• Conference of Birds
• Distilled
• Yoko Devereux
• Buckler By Andrew Buckler

All of the collections were great and this fashion blog awaits next seasons return to the same format with even more designers co-signing. But we definitely give it up to these four labels for pioneering the way with exra props to Buckler for foregoing a tent spot at Bryant Park to headline the event.

Of course we’ll be bringing you coverage of each collection soon.

NIKE AIR JORDAN XXIII

Sneakerheads are salivating over the looming release of Nike’s Air Jordan XXIII (23) Shoe. But the shoe is not just making waves in those circles. The shoe and it’s launch are being closely watched by all sorts of media outlets.

Speculation is rampant that the Air Jordan XXIII ( the 23rd edition of the iconic shoe) may be the last version with the legendary baller’s endorsement, since he wore No. 23 on his jersey.

But as for now, the facts are that it will be a “green” shoe, or what Nike labels as “Nike Considered”. According to Fortune magazine this is, “an approach to design that favors environmentally-preferable materials, reduces toxic chemicals and curbs waste.” For example, Nike vice president Tinker Hartfield told Fortune that the shoe will, “fit together, almost like a jigsaw puzzle so it interlocks,” instead of using harmful chemical glues.

People serious about their athletic shoe game can get the limited editions for $230, or the regular edition for $185.

Now, for those of you who may not fully comprehend the magnitude of the Air Jordan brand, Fortune breaks it down:

“Air Jordans have transformed the business of athletic shoes. Hard as it is to believe now, basketball shoes were white or gray before the first black and red Air Jordans. In fact, Jordan was fined $5,000 a game by the NBA for wearing them in violation of its ‘uniformity of uniform rule.’ Later, an eye-catching edition of the Air Jordans made with black patent leather was worn with tuxedos by the R&B group Boyz II Men.”

One pair of kicks went from changing sports rules to changing fashion and style rules. Are we clear?

Nike is launching the shoes with a series of ad’s involving footage of various sports figures before they hit the big time, including Carmelo Anthony, Ray Allen and Derek Jeter. It’s actually a pretty cool ad. Watch it at the bottom of the post or on youtube.

Fortune reports the Air Jordan XXIII will launch nationwide next month during the N.B.A All-Star game. Quite fitting!

Nike’s (clean) Air Jordans [Fortune]

“NOW THAT IT’S RAINING MORE THAN EVER….YOU CAN STAND UNDER MY UMBRELLA (ELLA, ELLA)”

You know how every so often one of those particularly bad rain storms hit and you might find yourself stuck in it? There’s the odd dilemma of having one of those pointy cane umbrellas invoking memories of The Penguin. Now these are great for their function and you can be sure they’ll weather a storm, but it’s always so inconvenient and out of place to carry it around when the shower stopped but the day is continuing. The other end of the spectrum are the highly portable, easily disposable tote umbrellas that you can grab, go and can fit anywhere once the rain has subsided. Only problem is when it’s raining they’re pretty useless as the slightest gust of wind will turn them inside out, thus foiling your whole plan.

Well now there’s the best of both worlds incorporating form and function with the Senz Original Umbrella. This award winning (added cache) umbrella uses aerodynamic design to make it wind resistant up to 70 MPH, thus avoiding the embarrassing gaffe of inside out umbrella. Style points are inherent in the design and will keep you dry while turning heads.

Available in black, crimson, khaki and navy these umbrellas are a must have at $55.

Available here.

 

KRIS VAN ASSCHE INTERVIEW ABOUT HIS FALL WINTER 2008-09 DIOR HOMME COLLECTOIN

Dior Homme designer Kris Van Assche talks with Suzy Menkes about his recent Fall Winter 2008/2009 collection. If the video doesn’t display below, see it here.

PARIS FASHION WEEK: MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW

For Fall/Winter 2008-09 Maison Martin Margiela presented a numerically light collection of about 20 looks.

Sharp, rigid tailoring was the focus of the collection as rigid, structured jackets paired with slim trousers. Double breasted jackets with satin collars were tapered presenting a sharp ‘V’ silhouette which seemed to run through the collection. Through the magic effects of tailoring a distinct silhouette emerged not seen in the other Paris collections. Exaggerated shoulders sharply protruded without forgiveness, coming together at a waist that seemed not to care for excess fabric.

This ‘V’ silhouette was used on tee’s and leather jackets merging with two vertical lines to create a Maison Martin Margiela ‘M’. Adding the the edgy vibe were barbed wired vests destined for the costume room paired with trousers tucked into calf length boots.

Fur trimming draped as scarves and used as collars, along with vests laid over bare skin kept in vibe with the other trends on the runways. Meanwhile limited edition boots painted with skulls resuscitated the whole skeletal skull and bones trend briefly.

L’Incognito sunglasses adorned models reiterating the focus and attention on the clothing not the models.

MORE PICS AFTER THE JUMP. Read more

ROBERT POLET, OF THE GUCCI GROUP, INTERVIEW

Robert Polet, C.E.O. of Gucci Group, speaks with Suzy Menkes about meeting his goals for the Gucci Group, the brands operations and it’s focus. If the video doesn’t display below, see it here.

PARIS FASHION WEEK: DIOR HOMME COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW

For Fall/Winter 2008-09 Dior Homme creative director Kris Van Assche presented his first runway collection for the storied house after last season’s static presentation.

Holding court at Les Invalides, the burial site of Napoleon Bonaparte, Kris Van Assche chose for a live band to play.

In a sober collection that made heavy use of black as a color, Van Assche gave different hues of black to form the basis of the palette. Dark reds and greens added touches of color here and there.

As for the clothing, Van Assche went back to the snug fitting silhouettes pioneered by Hedi Slimane. Skin tight trousers resembled tights and slim, form fitting jackets were paired with them.

For a brief moment we thought that Van Assche had did away with the voluminous multi-pleated parachute pants he presented at his debut for the company last season. But, no. Alas, mid-way through the collection the homage to M.C. Hammer made it self known, in some cases seeming baggier.

Belted jackets, particularly the one in dark satin green was a must have while butterfly detailing was poetically added to suit jackets and used as bow-ties for tailored shirts.

MORE PHOTOS AFTER THE JUMP. Read more

PARIS FASHION WEEK: ANN DEMEULEMEESTER COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW

For Fall/Winter 2008-09, Belgium designer Ann Demeulemeester (part of the Antwerp Six) presented a charmingly poetic collection.

Set to the soundtrack of various renditions of Bob Dylan’s “Knockin’ on Heaven’s Door”, including his own, Demeulemeester contrasted a dark, Gothic tailoring viewpoint with lovely floral prints.

The first look set the tone with a solemn preachy looking model walking out with strap fringes hanging from his jacket and trousers. An almost puritanical vibe seemed referenced through the hats and starkly black color used.

This was soon contrasted with a floral vibe that came through with flowers attached to hats and a pink, green, purple and lilac print that was used in jackets, vests and trousers.

A collection which made use of heavy layering had it’s standout in the form of waistcoats with distinctly crimped lapels and collars perfect for layering or as a solo statement.

MORE PICS AFTER THE JUMP. Read more

PARIS FASHION WEEK: PAUL SMITH COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW

For Fall/Winter 2008-09, Paul Smith presented a very anglophilic collection that was made relevant through the use of fabric technology.

Sir Paul sent out wonderfully tailored suits with quirky takes on British tailoring such as multi-button holed lapels on suit jackets and dual patterned lapels.

Tousled hair models strutted the runway styled with thin trim belts styled atop one another. Wide pinstriped tailored shirts, zebra print belts, five-buttoned suit jackets and disheveled ties added to the playful quirkiness that defines Sir Paul Smith.

Old English tailoring was made new and relevant through the use of modern cuts and advances in fabric technology. The collection may have been based in sartorial tradition, but it was updated through a distinct lightness to the tweeds, plaids and pinstripes. Three piece suits were freshly paired through a mix-matching of patterns.

And the retro-looking two toned sunglasses reminded us of rectangular Wayfarers. We’re thinking they’ll probably move briskly at retail.

MORE PHOTOS AFTER THE JUMP. Read more

PARIS FASHION WEEK: LANVIN COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW

For Fall Winter 2008-09, French fashion label Lanvin presented a collection that made use of tech fabrics cut to familiar tailored pieces with extremes being touched on.

The label’s menswear designer Lucas Ossendrijver went to the extremes of fabric research and construction of tech fabrics. The result was double bonded materials making use of neoprene fused to cottons and cashmere fused to leathers. The use of such materials came through in understated elegance the label is known for.

The collection had a decidedly crisp and boxy essence to it. The boxiness of the clothing came through in nearly all looks from suit jackets, to overcoats, to trousers. High cut double breasted jackets were paired with the extremely cropped trousers. We’re talking flood waters not seen since the likes of Noah.

A certain romanticism was in the collection through the addition of boutonnieres to nearly all of the looks. This floral accent added to the elegance of the collection.

MORE PHOTOS AFTER THE JUMP. Read more

PARIS FASHION WEEK: KRIS VAN ASSCHE COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW

For Fall/Winter 2008-09 Kris Van Assche gave a collection of his favorites for his signature line.

His favorites turned out to be looks favored by many other men. Denim shirts, denim jackets, worn jeans, plaids (how surprising), cozy sweaters and blazers came down a washing machine lined runway.

Jumpsuits layered with jackets and vests over button-ups took care of the layered effect. The distressed faded denim he presented swung the pendulum from the neat, dark clean denim rage of the past few years.

Pieces ranges from a simple yellow sweater with a button shoulder opening to a gray knit vest-scarf hybrid with pockets that draped around the neck and came down the front of the body, one of our favorites.

Other standouts were the boots with diagonal slant zippers and metallic quilted coats.

The show ended with the models stripping of the duds and throwing them into the washing machines.

MORE PICS AFTER THE JUMP. Read more

PARIS FASHION WEEK: VIKTOR & ROLF COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW

For Fall Winter 2008-09 Viktor & Rolf presented a nostalgic gentlemanly collection for the menswear line “Monsieur”.

The Amsterdam based duo gave three piece looks had coats instead of suit jackets. Models clad in glasses and bowler hats came down the runway in bow ties and trousers that ranged from double pleated to wide legged and some slim.

Quirky effects like watch chains hanging from tailored shirts and jackets added to the nostalgia of a past era.

Suits ranged from form-fittingly tailored with nipped waists to bold look-at-me prints.

MORE PHOTOS AFTER THE JUMP. Read more

PARIS FASHION WEEK: YVES SAINT LAURENT COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW

For their Fall/Winter 2008-09 collection Yves Saint Laurent chose of ignore the runway and give a video presentation.

Designer Stefano Pilati chose actor Simon Woods to display the looks in the video.

Pilati continued to play with proportion and volume, though not as exaggerated as last season.  The collection itself included roomy, floor-brushing, wide legged trousers being contrasted with tapered, cropped slim leg pants.  Classic, well cut blazers clashed with bold, polka-dot print blazers.

There was a 70’s vibe to the collection.  Crushed velvet was a highlet of the collection as it came through in blazers and one striking biker jacket.

MORE PHOTOS AFTER THE JUMP. Read more

GILDO ZEGNA GIVES A TOUR OF THE NEW MILAN HEADQUARTERS FOR ERMENEGILDO HEADQUARTERS

Gildo Zegna gives Suzy Menkes a tour of the new Ermenegildo Zegna headquarters in Milan.

PARIS FASHION WEEK: JUNYA WATANABE COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW

For Fall Winter 2008-09, Japanese designer Junya Watanabe presented a collection based on tailored uniforms familiar to bankers and stockbrokers.

Holding court in La Bourse, the historical Paris stock exchange, Watanabe sent down looks that would fit right in there.

2, 3, and 4 button jackets were the basis of the collection as nearly all looks presented were tailored. Watanabe took classic inspiration and made it modern and relevant by shrinking blazers to slim, tight proportions. Other jackets were mixed with a varsity slant through sleeves and pockets.

Blazers were teamed with equally slim denim pants. Details were added to jackets such as red stitched button holes and piping.

Trousers were cropped by way of rolling them up to reveal socks of patterned plaid, natch.

MORE PICS AFTER THE JUMP. Read more

PARIS FASHION WEEK: JOHN GALLIANO COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW

For Fall/Winter 2008-09 designer John Galliano got medieval on our ass.

Never one for a quiet presentation the evil genius sent Princes, court jesters and bloody executioners gliding out on a runway representing ice.

Indeed the name of the collection was “Ice” a reference to the River Thames frost fairs that would take place when the river froze over during the 14th, 15th and 16th centuries. The phenomenon, which occurred when the climate was more severe, would bring forth masses of the community to celebrate.

This old English vibe was heavily referenced in the collection from jackets and robes to shoes and hats, even the hair styling. A bulky silhouette produced from layering contrasted with slim fitting jackets. Belted knits with fur trim and the overlapping of fabrics were prime standouts from the collection. Dark, gritty colors formed the palette used, save the bright red undies that made a cameo probably to please his licensees.

Knit v-neck tops and some blazers gave a hint of the commercially viable garments that will hit stores come next season.

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PARIS FASHION WEEK: COMME DES GARCONS COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW

The Fall/Winter 2008-09 runway collection of Comme des Garçons was titled, “Time for Magic”

We felt that vibe as models strutted out in top hats, some crisp some crushed, to the tunes of Ella Fitzgerald all taking place in a crass night-venue on Paris’ Rue de Rivoli. Surely something special was going on, and if it hadn’t been the magic of Rei Kawakubo it would have been a joke.

From the first look that brought together a union of kilts and shorts Kawakubo was trying to say something. It came in patches stamped across a multitude of garments that read various slogans, such as “lies, lies, lies”, “Closing down sale” and “Last Days”. Oh boy, looks like the glass is half-empty.

If one designer received the memo on global warming it was Rei who had quite a few short-kilt hybrids for guys to whip out when unseasonably warm temperatures hit next fall and winter. And speaking of her use of kilt as a reference, you know comes along with that…more plaid.   Oh my gosh, what a shocking surprise.

Jackets were washed and distressed with strips of this season’s ubiquitous tartan fabric criss-crossing here and there. Rei actually used this technique on trousers as well. Other jackets were deconstructed with zippers on the sides of the chest opening up to expose the shirts underneath.

MORE PICS AFTER THE JUMP. Read more

PARIS FASHION WEEK: YOHJI YAMAMOTO COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW

For Fall Winter 2008/2009 Yohji Yamamoto presented a dark, masculine looks for his signature collection.

Lots of blacks, dark greys and navy blues formed the basis of the collection, despite the designer’s need to have three pops of bright color in the middle of the show as bright blue, green and orange made a cameo.
Yamamoto continued to reference a military theme. Looks were reminiscent of European army officers. Lots of coats and jackets cut and tailored in a distinctly Yamamoto way.

His explanation for the collection he told reporters backstage, “I thought menswear was becoming a little bit feminine; I wanted to make it masculine again.”

Yamamoto certainly did that with overcoats that incorporated, epaulets, suit lapels and cuffs accompanied by pleated trousers and what looked like zip up combat boots.

He also made heavy use of plaid, which we’re beginning to think was ordered of every designer by the Plaid Mafia. Yamamoto’s take on plaid was hidden in the lining of coats and as prints for tailored shirts.

The collection took a Celtic turn when bolts of plaid fabric were made into a kilt that came up the body, draped around the neck and fell again. Something that would take a real man to wear it indeed.

MORE PICS AFTER THE JUMP. Read more

PARIS FASHION WEEK: LOUIS VUITTON COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW

For Fall/Winter 2008-09 the Louis Vuitton collection delved into an exploration of it’s masculine side.

Marc Jacobs and his right-hand man for menswear Paul Helbers took inspiration for the collection from 60’s robbery movies.

Elegant and sleek men in slim fitting jackets and straight leg trousers came down the runway in untied ties hanging around their neck as if they didn’t have the time to finish dressing after changing outfits from their latest heist. Some models even paraded in crash helmets adding to the humour.

Even the color palette was inspired from old bank notes. Speaking of which, we wonder if that was cash stuffed in those bags. Probably not, but expect them to do well at retail as their Damier Graphite look is just the latest take on L.V’s iconic print.

We may have to get Danny Ocean and his boys to perform a heist for us to get our hands on those beautiful Damier Graphite print bags.

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PARIS FASHION WEEK: NUMBER (N)INE COLLECTION AUTUMN/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW

For Fall Winter 2008/2009 the Number (N)ine collection was title My Own Private Portland reflecting the inspiration for the collection.

The show may have been presented in Paris, but the looks presented by designer Takahiro Miyashita were pure Americana. Models came down the runway in shabby chic, thrift store looks.

The venue was set to look like a run down garage. Shear-ling trim on suede coats, cowboy hats, boots and buffalo check gave an outdoorsy frontier vibe. The nostalgic lore of the wild west also came through in Native American print knits and moccasin shoes.

This historic inspiration was modernized in the form of cropped pants that reminded one of Thom Browne and shearling trim coats died blue and black.

Some of the looks may be thrift store inspired but don’t expect the prices to have the same inspiration.

MORE PHOTOS AFTER THE JUMP. Read more

PARIS FASHION WEEK: JEAN PAUL GAULTIER COLLECTION AUTUMN/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW

For Fall Winter 2008-09 Jean Paul Gaultier presented a nostalgic collection of dandyism with a twist.

The “enfant terrible” of fashion sent looks down the runway that were not terribly shocking as they were more classically pleasing.

The use of bowler hats and umbrellas as props gave a disarmingly haunting vibe to familiar looks and silhouettes. Gaultier’s narrative of a twisted dandy resonated in looks that weren’t avant garde, but rather surprisingly wearable pieces such as vests and belted coats.

A color palette of mixed browns, blacks and reds added to the dark vibe of the collection.

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PARIS FASHION WEEK: DRIES VAN NOTEN COLLECTION AUTUMN/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW

For Fall Winter 2008-09 Dries Van Noten presented a collection of “unconventional classicism” as he describes it.

This was seen in classic garments with added twists, such as a double breasted jacket with only one functional button of the two included, or classic haircuts with streaks of wild color.

Light silky materials were the heart of the collection giving everything from trousers to scarves an airy, light effect. Sometimes silk was even woven onto wool to emphasize use of original fabrics Dries Van Noten is familiar with.

Trousers were roomy and printed with many having zippers extending from the hem to mid-shin. Numerous coats and jackets incorporated a fur collar. Wild abstract prints were used on trousers, tailored shirts, puffer coats and lapels.

It was this use of the familiar with the unfamiliar that hit throughout the collection.

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MILAN FASHION WEEK TRENDS EMERGE

Milan Fashion is now in the bag and Paris has started.

As we wrap-up and say good-bye to Milan we take a look at the trends that emerged from the catwalks.

Strong trends that we noticed were:

• blues and purples
• belted coats and jackets
• plaids
• knits
• fingerless gloves

BLUES & PURPLES

(Dolce & Gabbana; Etro; Missoni; Neil Barrett; Versace)

 

BELTED COATS & JACKETS

(Alexander McQueen; Bottega Veneta; Calvin Klein Collection; Costume National; Fendi; Gucci; Roberto Cavalli)

 

 

PLAIDS

(Costume National; Costume National; D&G; Dsquared; Emporio Armani; Etro; Gianfranco Ferre)

 

 

KNITS

(Alessandro Dell’Acqua; Alessandro Dell’Acqua; Alexander McQueen; D&G; Dolce & Gabbana; Dsquared; Missoni; Salvatore Ferragamo)

 

 

FINGERLESS GLOVES

(Burberry Prorsum; Costume National; Costume National; Neil Barrett; Neil Barrett)

 

Milan, we look forward to seeing what you bring next season. As for now the party’s in Paris as the men’s collections show from January 17th-20th.

And then a soft showing of New York Menswear week on January 20th-21st.

Of course, we’ll bring you reviews of the collections as fast as we can.

Photo credit: men.style.com

MILAN FASHION WEEK: ETRO COLLECTION FALL WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW

For Autumn Winter 2008-09 Etro presented a green collection in the sense of eco-consciousness.

The statement and vision were made explicitly clear as designer Kean Etro sent models out on a dirt trail of a runway lined with lush green hedges.

The eco conscious collection included images of onions and pears on shirts, and prints of leaves on fabrics. On paper it may seem like it could go kitchy and be over played. On the runway, or dirtway, it came across in well tailored looks in the form of vests, overcoats and well-cut trousers.

Prints were a big factor, and Etro’s seemed easy to wear without shouting at your face. Printed paisley trousers, cut slim but not tight, mixed with classic glen plaid double breasted blazers, cut high echoing the Thom Browne school of thought.

Chunky knits in the form of jackets and cardigans seemed cozy and comfortable. Velvet blazers came with piping in colors of pumpkin orange, yellow squash and chocolate brown.

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MILAN FASHION WEEK: FENDI COLLECTION FALL WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW

For Fall Winter 2008-09 the Fendi collection presented an uber, uber-luxe collection.

Designer Silvia Venturini Fendi, used fox furs, croc skins and camel hairs in clothing and accessories.

In innovative techniques, coats were structured to look like capes and others had extended shawl shoulders giving refreshingly different silhouettes distinct from other collections this season. Jackets and coats were highly structured with sharp line and distinct cuts.

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