GIVENCHY’S NEW PARIS FLAGSHIP

The Givenchy brand is going through a rebirth that includes the opening of a new “gallerylike” Paris flagship.

Set to open this Friday the 3,750 sq. ft. boutique will be located on the Faubourg Saint-Honore. The flagship is the latest in a series of changes for the legendary French label, part of the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton conglomerate of luxury brands. Other recent changes include Givenchy becoming once again profitable in 2007, appointing pop star Justin Timberlake star of it’s upcoming fragrance campaign and a growth in menswear, which accounts for about 35% of the Givenchy business according to WWD.

The placement of Timberlake shows how aggressively the label is trying to woo a new generation while staying true to some of it’s roots. It’s menswear is in the midst of change as WWD reports:

“After parting ways with its former men’s designer, Ozwald Boateng, last year and mothballing a second line, Givenchy has pursued a new men’s positioning with an in-house design team. ‘It’s more contemporary and in line with the overall DNA of the brand,’ [chairman Marco] Gobbetti said. ‘We’re restarting the men’s distribution in Saks in seven locations’.”

Givenchy Displays New Spirit With Paris Flagship [WWD]

CATHY HORYN GETS A GLIMPSE INSIDE THE MIND OF REI KAWAKUBO AND COMME DES GARCONS

T Magazine gives a great piece that delves into the secretive, curious world that is Comme Des Garcons. Cathy Horyn writes about the mastermind Rei Kawakubo and her orchestra of Junya Watanabe, Tao Kurihara and Fumito Ganryu.

Horyn brings a bit of insight to the avant-garde conceptual insanity evoked by the brand and explains how Kawakubo engineers everything through a hands on process that is interestingly hands off when it comes to her proteges.

The piece is essential reading for anyone interested in the cult brand or fashion in general.

Some choice quotes include:

“Kawakubo, working more in the spirit of an artist than any designer today, attacks the problems of consciousness.”

“[Kawakubo] makes her profit so that she can do something new the next season. It’s always about the next project. That’s why I see her as someone who wants to express the world through fashion. She just wants to keep on doing it.”

“For [Kawakubo], separateness and neutrality are indispensable to the creative process. At the same time, she exerts enormous influence over the company, largely through her values.”

“The pressure comes to them [her proteges] because I give it to myself. And it wouldn’t come to them if I didn’t give it to myself. The process of getting there is exactly the same for them — not being satisfied. With Junya, I’m not sure how many times he repeats until he gets the perfect thing. I don’t know about his actual process. I don’t know how angry people get with him or how dissatisfied he gets with himself.”

Read the full article here.

Gang of Four [T Magazine]

TOM FORD BEGINS TWO YEAR PARTNERSHIP WITH HARRODS

Tom Ford continues his march toward global domination with the signing of an exclusive two year deal with Harrods.

The designer’s menswear collection went on sale at Harrods in London last week reports DNR.

The partnership also includes plans for a shop-in-shop to open in late spring as key items are already moving well. According to a report in this week’s DNR, “key selling points in the collection include the working cuffs on jackets, side-fastening trousers and fabric selection. Shirts are all sold unfinished and tailored to customer requirements; belt loops on trousers are optional. Meanwhile the high-quality fabric on the three-piece pinstripe wool suit has impressed consumers.”

The partnership with Harrods follows the opening of Tom Ford’s Madison Avenue boutique in Manhattan last year.

In a statement released to DNR, Domenico DeSole, chairman of Tom Ford International, said, “We are excited to be launching the collection exclusively in the U.K. with Harrods….With a clearly defined distribution plan in place and a discerning eye on quality, service and design, we are poised to establish the first true luxury brand of the 21st century.”

A 10,000 square foot store in Milan is to follow.

Tom Ford Label Takes Off at Harrods [DNR]

‘AMERICAN LIVING’ SET TO LAUNCH FOR J.C. PENNEY

And the collaboration gravy train rolls on.

American Living, is the brain child of J.C. Penney Co. and Polo Ralph Lauren Corp.’s Global Brand Concepts. The brand will be sold exclusively at J.C. Penney and will include men’s, women’s and children’s apparel and housewares. The brand launch will be the biggest in Penney’s 105-year history as they jump right into the waters instead of slowly rolling out each category.

Global Brand Concepts will be responsible, “for designing, producing, marketing and advertising the brand” according to a report by Reuters.

“The line has a country-living, Americana-feel. It does not bear a “Ralph Lauren” label, but the designer’s influence is unmistakable. The line includes signature Ralph Lauren pieces like polo, oxford and rugby shirts with the American Living logo — an eagle holding an American flag.”

The brand will be priced at Penney’s highest end, despite the shaky economy. The brand intends to hit consumers with a large marketing campaign set to coincide with the Academy Awards.

American Living Launch Largest Ever for J.C. Penney [Reuters]

THE INCREDIBLE SHRINKING MALE MODEL

Old Gray Lady looks into the phenomenon of the incredibly shrinking male model in yesterday’s Styles section.

Apparently Hedi Slimane’s influence in revolutionizing the aesthetic of the men’s fashion industry has changed the preferred appearance for models.

Slimane’s suit cuts were so boldly slim and sleek that other designers quickly followed his lead bringing a new look to suits throughout the industry. With this sea change of new looks came the need for models who could fit into the suits to do them justice.

“This was abundantly clear in the castings of models for New York shows by Duckie Brown, Thom Browne, Patrik Ervell, Robert Geller and Marc by Marc Jacobs, where models like Stas Svetlichnyy of Russia typified the new norm” the New York Times reports. “Mr. Svetlichnyy’s top weight, he said last week, is about 145 pounds. He is 6 feet tall with a 28-inch waist.”

Dave Fothergill, a director at Red Model Management tells the Times, “Designers like the skinny guy…It looks good in the clothes and that’s the main thing. That’s just the way it is now.”

Which poses the enevitable question of whether or not skinny male models are the new skinny female models?

The Vanishing Point [NYT]

HAS FASHION BEEN INSPIRED BY THE ECONOMY?

Photo credit: Lucas Jackson for Reuters

As New York Fashion Week begins we look forward to the upcoming designs on the runways under the tents of Bryant Park. Of course, we like the drama and fashion forward designs that can appear on the runway. But this season, there seems to be a global consensus in the fashion community of making designs more accessible to appeal to consumers wary of the economic climate.

The conditions currently underway in the U.S. with the housing slump and value of the dollar seems to have trickled into the minds of designers. Without anyone wanting to publicly say the “R” word, designers seem to have toned down theatrics and edgy designs for designs more suitable to a cautious consumer.

David Wolfe, creative director of NY-based trend forecasting company the Donegar Group, tells Reuters, “In this environment designers have to push the envelope more toward desirability, not sensationalism.” We expect a return to more classic designs that will stand the test of time. Retail buyers and consumers alike will be wary to buy too trendy items that will date after a season.

We’ve already seen a return to classic’s on the runways of Milan and Paris, and this morning at Perry Ellis, as designers embrace traditional fabrics. Jayne Mountford, of Stylesight (a trend reporting company), confirms this telling Reuters that, “Men’s fabrics in particular — flannel, pinstripes, herringbone, tattersall checks, plaids and tartans — will be key this season.”

We’ve seen the influence of the Plaid Mafia on nearly every runway from Milan to Paris and now New York.

But this brings a dilemma because if designs are too cautious and nothing fresh come to market, then what incentive does that give consumers to buy.?

NY Fashion Show to Take Inspiration from Economy [Reuters]

LIZ CLAIBORNE INC. HIRES JOHN BARLETT FOR MENSWEAR

Liz Claiborne Inc. has hired John Bartlett to infuse some life into their Claiborne menswear offerings.

According to WWD.com, “Under the label Claiborne by John Bartlett, the men’s line is launching for spring 2009. The wholesale prices of about $15 to $300 will stay the same, and Claiborne will evaluate expanding or scaling back from the estimated 1,000 doors, including Macy’s and Dillard’s, which carry the men’s line.”

In a statement Bartlett told WWD that he aims “to infuse Claiborne with a strong DNA and lead the brand in a new and exciting direction. My goal is to create an enticing line at affordable prices that men will find irresistible. The Claiborne name has a strong legacy and I intend on honoring that while transforming the men’s line to address a great opportunity in the better men’s market.”

It should be interesting to see what Bartlett comes up with. Also look for Liz Claiborne Inc. to announce a counterpart for the women’s line in the near future.

Claiborne Taps John Barlett for Men’s [WWD]

TREND ALERT: THE VEST IS A MUST HAVE

 

After the explosion of blazers a few years ago, the tailored look has evolved to vests. And no, not three piece suits (which Tom Ford has make HOT again) but just vests, or waistcoats if you’re across the pond.From button up vests, to sweater vest to cardigan vests, worn as a layering piece, vests look great over a shirt and tie and downtown hip over a great t-shirt.

The key to pulling off the look is a clean and tailored appearance, with the vest being proportioned to the pants. In other words, make sure the vest hits the belt right and that the vest isn’t boxy but form fitting.

The New York Times has even highlighted the trend in this weeks Style section. It seems that guys all over the city are rocking the vest. Reporter Dave Colman writes, “stylish young urbanites, in a rare display of solidarity, have embraced the vest as a flourish that lends nearly any outfit a bit of cool. There are suit vests, in bankerly worsteds and pinstripes, and “odd vests,” in solid colors, checks and suede.”

So the trend has now reached the mainstream but should continue a few more seasons as men’s wear trends tend to move slower than our female counterparts.

Ditching the Suit, the Vest Struts Its Stuff [NYT]

HOW GREEN IS GREEN REALLY?

With the green trend being all the rage in current season’s the eco-conscious debate has come front and center. We would like to think that everyone wants to help the earth in any way in this age of global warming.

But to be green is not as easy as selecting hemp or soy-based fabrics as reporter Eric Wilson reported in the International Herald Tribune: “Fabrics made from bamboo or hemp, for example, are promoted as having been raised without pesticides and also for growing much faster than cotton. But the downside is that bamboo or hemp fibers are naturally tough and are typically softened before being woven into fabric by using chemical treatments, which cause more pollution.

Naturally softer fabrics made from soy have a mild impact compared to cotton, according to environmental groups, but they are less durable, so clothes wear out faster and have to be replaced more often — which has an environmental cost of its own.”

But without thorough regulation it can be hard to gauge how green a garment really is. Sure it may be made with more environmentally friendly fabrics, but if these fabrics require chemical treatments to make them wearable how green is green?

Eco Fashion? A World Consumed By Guilt [IHT]

WILL THE RICH STOP BUYING???

The Wealth Report, a blog hosted on The Wall Street Journal’s website, brings up an interesting point about how wealthy clients choose to spend during an economic downturn.The prevailing argument in the industry seems to be that the wealthy are immune from downswings in the economy by virtue of their wealth. This may be true for the ultra wealthy, which is a minute portion of the population.

But as pointed out by the Journal, “A lot of luxury consumers are the leaders, the movers and shakers, the people with corporate responsibilities and the entrepreneurs….Their investment portfolios are taking a hit. They’re feeling the effect of the weaker dollar. They have a lot of questions about leadership in this country. You can’t pull stuff over on these people. They know what’s going on and they’re really very cautious.”

This makes sense, especially for the wealthy who earned their money versus inheriting it. Those who earned it are typically more cautious and conservative with their hard earned dollars.

But the ultra-wealthy are also in another class. The uber luxury brands, the highest end of the luxury market, should have enough gas and cache to ride it out.

JUST HOW MUCH DOES COUNTRY OF ORIGIN MATTER?

Do consumers care about where a product comes from?

Does the label “Made In Italy” still carry as much weight as it once did, in this age of global outsourcing? China’s and India’s economies are on fire as more manufacturers source overseas factories.

FASHION INC. sites a study by Barclays Wealth about what rich people desire when buying luxury goods. Surprisingly country of origin is quite low on the list, the bottom actually.

According to Lauren Goldstein Crowe on FASHION INC., “Luxury consumers want things that are made well, of fine fabrics and careful construction. And if manufacturers can find workshops in China or India where that kind of work is still being done, so be it.

Luxury consumers don’t really care where it is made so long as it is made as it should be, and that (before people start shouting sweatshop) includes taking worker conditions into account.”

Other factors such as quality and value of a product carry more weight than country of origin. As it should. Do you want a piece of crap, but, oh it was Made in Italy? Or do you want a high quality article of clothing from China.

Now this is obviously not to say Made in Italy is crap. Most decidedly not. But it is to say that just because Made In USA or Made In Italy is stamped on the tag doesn’t necessarily absolutely translate to higher quality.

With the rise of outsourcing more and more consumers have become accustomed to clothing being manufactured off-shore. This comes despite the fact of the recent recalls plaguing China.

Countries such as China and India are developing and progressing each day. Their economies are on fire and they are building their infrastructure everyday. As time goes on they are building better and better modern facilities and factories to handle the production of high quality clothing.

As far as we’re concerned, we’re more worried about quality the country of origin.

How to Buy Luxury 3: What Rich People Want [FASHION INC.]

Isaac Mizrahi Expands Menswear, H&M Fights AIDS, Street Shots Brings Purple To the Front, Snoop Dogg Poses, The Death of Malls, Luxury Watch Guide and More

The New Year has kicked off and we’re testing a new format for the 08!

Instead of individual posts for each specific item we are going to round up the happenings of menswear into a single daily post. It is our intention that this new format will allow you to easily scan the round-up of daily events in one post. (If any of you are pissed about this, please feel free to vent and we’ll strive to please everyone in the most democratic way.)

Moving on.

Today is the first Monday of the year, January 7, 2008.

Let’s see what’s going down…

Isaac Mizrahi IS EXPANDING MENSWEAR

Talented designer Isaac Mizrahi is expanding his menswear business with a “two-tier” distribution of product, according to DNR[1]. The NY-born designer will put out a designer collection, Isaac Mizrahi New York and a second line known as Isaac Mizrahi.

According to DNR, “the designer collection, called Isaac Mizrahi New York, suits will retail for $3,000 to $4,000. In the diffusion line, called simply Isaac Mizrahi, suits will go for $800 to $1,200. Upscale department stores with capacity to offer two levels of service could carry both tiers, which are designed to be styled together, according to Isaac Mizrahi president Peter Rizzo.”

We are definitely feeling the fact that Mizrahi will be making menswear clothing “which [is] designed to be styled together”. The mixing and matching of different price points is what is hot and happening in fashion at the moment. The whole high/low styling is being embraced throughout the industry as wealthy consumers who have the luxury of sticking with luxury product exclusively would rather shop at H&M and mix it into their wardrobe. Meanwhile, consumers with a more modest budget are seeking out aspirational products and luxury items to spruce up their wardrobes. The days of wearing one outfit by one designer are over. It is now about mixing and matching. And of course Isaac Mizrahi knows this best as it was he who basically anointed the designer/fast fashion craze with his line for Target.

H&M Launches “Fashion AGAINST AIDS”

Swedish fast-fashion giant H&M has launched a campaign to combat AIDS.

The campaign is an effort to high-light the on-going devastation the disease is causing around the world and in particular to youth with twelve million young people ages 15-24 now infected. It’s always good to see fashion for a cause in this often superficial industry.

H&M is teaming up with artists Rihanna, Chicks on Speed, Good Charlotte, Henrik Vibskov, Jade Jagger, Justice, Katharine Hamnett, My Chemical Romance, Rufus Wainwright, Scissor Sisters, The Cardigans, Tiga, Timbaland and Ziggy Marley.

According to H&M’s website: “The collection comprises T-shirts, tank tops and hooded sweaters. All garments feature a print and the neckline label carries the name of the print designer. Some of the prints are low-key and subtle, and whisper that this is important. Others raise their voice. Katharine Hamnett’s print in big, black, block lettering on a white background shouts “USE A CONDOM!”, while Tiga’s check all-over print calls for quiet reflection. Some of the squares have a different colour and represent all those who have the virus. The idea behind the campaign is summed up by Henrik Vibskov’s print: Be aware - it is still happening.”[2]

And we suggest showing this French AIDS campaign to youth in this country. (NSFW)

STREET SHOTS! TRENDS ON THE STREETS!!!

We love to hit the streets of New York to see the trends that are organically brewing at the moment.

After all, fashion is representative of what’s happening at the moment.

This past weekend in SoHo we noticed a trend of purple taking shape.

Stylish pedestrians were making use of the color in various ways from accenting to boldly bringing it front and center.

 

SNOOP DOGG PIMPS OUT L’UOMO VOGUE

Rapper Calvin Broadus, better known by his moniker, Snoop Doggy Dogg, is featured in L’UOMO VOGUE, the Italian men’s version. Following the current trend, the debonair rapper drops his fitted and jersey for a more becoming tailored look in the December 2007 issue.

DESIGNER PHONES HITTING THE SCENE IN 2008

With the arrival of Dolce & Gabana’s gold Razr phone and Prada’s touch screen mobile phone, it was only a matter of time before other fashion companies referenced their lead.

In 2008 we will see the arrival of two more designer phones.

The first one is from Armani, which comes as no surprise as Giorgio Armani continues to sink his teeth into everything from a hotel in Dubai to decorating you su casa.The Armani phone (4th item down) will be designed in collaboration with Samsung and be touch screen responsive.

Also in the ‘08, we will be seeing watchmaker Tag Heuer hop into the mobile phone game. Their Tag phone (7th item down) is being designed with Modelabs, a French design house.

Look at that pic closely! So far the design is looking extremely innovative and interesting.

And it will sure put a rest to losing your phone or even having to carry multiple accessories.

OSIRIS DROPS BRONX KOI SERIES

Skate shoe maker Osiris plans to release this slick baby in late January. These kicks take inspiration from the Far East, specifically Koi, which are ornamental domesticated varieties of the common carp fish. The Bronx model, the latest in the KOI series, will go for $73.

WHAT IS THE SNEAKER OBSESSION ALL ABOUT?

Since we’re on the subject we’d might as well ask, right?

Streetwear fans and others in our generation understand the value of a good pair of kicks. Collectors of sneakers understand the value even more, be it monetary of sentimental. LTD magazine founder “Hawaii” Mike Salman tells how his obsession grew into a 400 pair collection.

ARE THE MALLS IN AMERICA DYING…A SLOW PAINFUL DEATH???

Just asking ya know? The Luxist apparently thinks so, as does The Economist here, and then there’s that website called deadmalls.com.

Since we live in Manhattan which is basically one big mall we rarely get to these big-box phenoms called malls. We still don’t really understand the point of Manhattan Mall when 34th street is right outside it??? Unless, we’re craving “BOURBON CHICKEN, BOURBON CHICKEN”. You know what we’re talking about!

Anyway, apparently the mall is falling out of flavor in America, the place of it’s birth.

They’re becoming “lifestyle centers”, or outdoor shopping meccas. The enclosed shopping mall is apparently a thing of the past. But for how long?

HOW TO BUY A LUXURY WATCH

Watches have become a status symbol and they are probably the one accessory that all men should have.

But buying a luxury watch can be a bit of a challenge if you don’t know what to look for. You’re not buying a Swatch here, and you don’t want to drop a ton of dough on something you’ll regret, obviously. You want true value in your timepiece.

Ken Grazi, watch expert and partner of luxury watch store KENJO, has written a guide located at Sharp By Design.

The average consumer isn’t familiar with the high-end brands, assuming that Rolex is as good as it gets. But as we learn at Sharp By Design, “true watch connoisseurs, however, would argue that watches such as Rolex or Omega can’t be considered luxury because they are mass produced. Instead, smaller companies that are known only by an enlightened few should qualify as luxury.”

Grazi’s recommendation is to, “Buy what you love. Don’€™t pay attention to price or advertising when choosing your luxury watch. Look instead at the company history, the amount of detail that goes into creating the timepiece, and how many are produced each year. The more limited quantity a company offers, the more you can be assured the true value of your purchase—and then you evolve from being a watch buyer to a watch collector.”

LODEN DAGER BLOGS!

 

Loden Dager, a NY men’s wear collective, have been guest blogging at style blog The Moment hosted over on old gray lady. The gang discusses the daily workings as they prepare for their upcoming Paris and New York runway shows.

MILAN FASHION WEEK

Milan Fashion Week for menswear shows will be kicking off at the end of this week. This will start the madness of the international shows. Oy!

Milan Fashion Week will be Saturday January 12 to Tuesday January 15. See the schedule here.

Saturday, January 12, 2008

10:00 Gaetano Navarra

11:00 C.P. Company

12:00 Costume National Homme

14:00 Jil Sander

15:00 Missoni

16:00 Burberry Prorsum

17:00 Les Hommes Homme

18:00 Gianni Versace

19:00 Romeo Gigli

20:00 Roen

21:00 Denis Simachev

Sunday, January 13, 2008

9:30 Bottega Veneta

10:30 Antonio Marras

11:30 Frankie Morello

12:30 Gianfranco Ferre

13:30 Salvatore Ferragamo

14:30 Vivienne Westwood

15:30 Emporio Armani

16:15 Neil Barrett

17:00 Byblos

17:45 Haute

19:00 Alexander McQueen

20:00 Prada

Monday, January 14, 2008

09:15 Enrico Coveri

10:00 Carlo Pignatelli Outside

11:00 Biagiotti

12:00 Dirk Bikkembergs

13:30 Roberto Cavalli

14:30 John Richmond

15:30 Moschino

16:30 Krizia Uomo

17:30 Gucci

18:30 Alessandro Dell’Acqua

19:30 Giuliano Fujiwara

20:30 Andrew Mackenzie

Tuesday, January 15, 2008

9:30 Marni

10:30 Iceberg

11:30 Dsquared2

12:30 Fendi

13:30 Etro

14:30 Messori

15:30 Giorgio Armani

16:30 Giorgio Armani

17:30 Calvin Klein Collection

18:30 Belstaff

19:30 Gazzarrini

20:30 Evisu

NOTES FROM ALL OVER

Oh look! A designer directory!!!

Oooohhhh! The best sneakers of 2007!!!

The collaboration train takes an interesting turn with Thomas Pink and writer William Boyd teaming up.

Pacific Sun plans on closing it’s 154 D.e.m.o. stores. [subs. req.]

The ‘hickey’ Store In SoHo Gets a Visit from a Critical Shopper

In this weeks edition of Critical Shopper Mike Albo visits the Hickey store in SoHo.

Hickey can be compared to a younger, rebellious youth of the legendary American brand Hickey Freeman.

Hickey Freeman is the brand your father and grandfather are probably familiar with. Hickey is an offshoot made for a younger, hipper client.

Think classic pieces with little shocking twists. For instance, marijuana leaves printed across shirts, shorts and ties, or, the spelling of the brand with a lower case ‘h’ instead of proper capital. You know, that sort of thing.

Mike Albo visits the store and gives a favorable review of the clothing but he’s a bit wary of the prices which tend toward the spoiled, bratty client type.

Owning a few of Hickey’s more tamer pieces, we can definitely say the pieces are extremely pleasing and powerful to a wardrobe.

The Bratty and the Beautiful [NYT]

Burberry Taps Hipness

Burberry, the British luxury company, has thrown itself into the 21st century modernizing it’s roots to suit a newer, fresher customer.

Their recent party for new fragrance “The Beat” was a study in how a staid brand can revolutionize itself to fit the current tastes.

On Fashion Inc. Lisa Rachal, an analyst with Redburn Partners, gives her view of the brand.

“Some industry experts feel the brand has reached a different stage in its evolution this year, and I would have to agree. And I think last night’s fragrance launch was yet another sign of Creative Director Christopher Bailey’s objective to push the Burberry brand into more modern and culturally relevant territory, whilst making sure to remain firmly within the brand’s DNA.”

Christopher Bailey is set to push the brand into new territory while staying aligned with the brands roots. This can be seen in his recent runway shows in which Burberry staples such as the trench was remade in vibrant modern colors.

Bailey is trying to make the brand fresh and innovative. He’s been experimenting with techno-fabrics. PVC and neoprene was heavily used in their latest Spring Summer 08 presentation. These techno-fabrics are remixing the look of classic staple articles of clothing.

According to FASHION INC., fashion photographer Mario Testino said: “I immediately realised that Burberry has reached another stage in its history. Christopher Bailey has taken Burberry into a very modern dimension. It was crucial that the advertising campaign expressed this new energy. Talking to Christopher, we agreed that the look we wanted to achieve was a mix of Cecil Beaton imagery and the Sixties feeling in London, reinterpreted with the people and the vigour of today. The new swinging London.”

View From an Analyst: The Burberry Party [Fashion Inc.]

Photo credit: Don Ashby & Olivier Claisse

Knit Picking with Robin Givhan

We tend to stay out of the political arena here at Haute Concept. But when others are talking about it we may lend an ear. This happened a few days ago with Robin Givhan, she of the sartorial beat for the Washington Post, not to be confused with the actress.

Robin Givhan handed a sartorial smackdown to John McCain for his dress method on the campaign trail. She specifically goes after his sweaters, which seem ill-suited on the senator.

“Sweaters — crew-necks and cardigans — have warm and kindly connotations. Public figures, male ones at any rate, use them to soften their public image or to appear more lovable or paternal. Dan Rather wore sweaters on the air during his anchorman days when he was trying to be cuddly. Jimmy Carter was a sweater man. Occasionally, Captain Kangaroo wore a cardigan.

“Privately, McCain very well may be sweet and fuzzy. But that is not the impression he gives in public. During a recent debate, his head looked as though it just might explode in anger during a brawl with Mitt Romney over waterboarding. Cranial eruptions and crew-neck sweaters don’t go together.

“McCain has a dress-shirt problem compounding the sweater conundrum. His collars always appear a smidge too small. They fit so snugly that they give the impression that his head is caught in a vise. Add the layer of a sweater and McCain looks as if he is engaged in a wrestling match with his attire.

[….] “There is an uncomfortable Peter Pan quality to McCain’s clothing, a sense that he hasn’t quite moved beyond the affectations — as well as the collar size — of his youth. Is there Winnie the Pooh embroidered on those sweaters? Is his name scribbled on the label in Magic Marker?”

Oh. Snap.

Picking Knits [Washington Post]

What the Doctor ordered? Are Doc Martens making a comeback

Dr. Martens, the chunky, clunky rubber soled boots of decades past are poised for a comeback. Or so thinks Old Gray Lady.

The iconic work boots which came to symbolize the counter-culture are aiming to recruit a new generation of free-thinkers. The seemingly anti-fashion boots have become a design classic worn by many groups. The New York Times reports:

“Dr. Martens showed up at New York’s fall Fashion Week in collections by Yohji Yamamoto, who is collaborating with the brand to create a limited-edition line, and by Chloé, which paired chunky boots incongruously with willowy dresses.

“They are kind of antifashion fashion,” said Kimberly Barta, vice president for marketing at AirWair International’s American operation in Portland, Ore. “We were a practical, hard-wearing, all-purpose work boot before we were ever picked up by the youth culture, and in time we became a design classic.”

An Antifashion Classic Returns [NYT]

Luxury Labels Woo the Men

The Wall Street Journal has an interesting article about the increased effort of luxury labels going after the male market.

Labels such as Louis Vuitton, Lilly Pulitzer and Harry Winston, which are typically associated with the female set, are seeing the appeal of targeting the evolving male’s sense of style.

“The labels say one of their ultimate goals is to get men to shop more like women — making more impulse purchases and being open to items they didn’t intend to buy when they walked into the store. Many men nowadays know what they’re looking for when they step into a store and are unlikely to pick up anything extra.”

Getting men to shop like women is obvious for the added benefit to the bottom line.

The shopping habits of men have changed in the past decade. The rise of the metrosexual has shown men that their peers are going out shopping and enjoying it.

“Men are also doing more of their own clothing shopping. Last year, 75% of men bought most of their own clothes, compared with 52% in 1995, according to Marshal Cohen, NPD’s chief industry analyst.”

Men are developing a more confident sense of style. They no longer need women to select their clothing. They are showing that they don’t mind choosing their own articles of clothing and labels are readily seeking this male customer out.

Male Bonding [WSJ]

Is Hedi Slimane Returning to LVMH to Design a Signature Line?

Will Slimane be returning to the stable of designers at LVMH?

That’s the question being asked in this weeks DNR.  The star designer, who left LVMH this past year as head designer of Dior Homme, has wanted his own label for a while.  Now may be his chance to get it.

We think a Hedi Slimane label will  do good business.  The designer became legendary during his tenure at Dior Homme.  His slim fitting aesthetic tapped into the collective conscious of many men from yound to old, as Lagerfeld went on a diet to fit into on of Slimane’s signature suits.

Slimane has brought fresh appeal to the menswear market and fashion week.  His shows were the highlight event of the week, with everyone, including rock stars and celebrities clamoring to get in.

It will be interesting to see this develop.  The designer is said to have maintained good ties with LVMH and it’s chairman Bernard Arnault.

Slimane Talking to LVMH About Possible Return [DNR]

 

DNR Inaugurates Annual Menswear Awards

DNR has held their first annual DNR Menswear awards, naming Tom Ford “Person of the Year” and Dolce & Gabbana “Style Icons” for 2007.  The winners were recently featured in the menswear magazine and honored at an awards ceremony held last week.  Other honorees included Brooks Brothers and Thom Browne for “Collaboration of the Year”.

John Birmingham, editor in chief of DNR, said in a press statement, “After covering men’s wear for more than a century, DNR presents a first: our inaugural yearend awards.  From Tom, Thom and Tomas to  Brooks and Band of Outsiders, we honor 2007’s most noteworthy accomplishments in design, retail marketing and entrepreneurship.”

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