NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: UNRULY HEIR COLLECTION FALL WINTER 2008-2009
April 7, 2008
The Unruly Heir Fall 2008 collection was held at the East Village Yatch Club in a static presentation.
The collection was entitled “Sidewalk Swinders and Socialite Scoundrels” and juxtaposed the two in order to show their similarities. This collection stayed close to the roots of Unruly Heir by mixing classic style with present day downtown cool.
Head designer Angelina Ulanskas told us the collection sought to “expose parallels between societies breakdowns”. The collection reminds us not to be fooled by the appearances of affluence. Read more
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
February 11, 2008
For Fall/Winter 2008-2009, Michael Kors found inspiration in old Hollywood.
Instead of jet-setting Kors turned to old-school style in a collection he called, “the Reel Life”. Read more
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: JOHN VARVATOS COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
February 9, 2008
For Fall/Winter 2008-09, John Varvatos presented a collection for the glam-ed out rock star.
Reflective peacoats, metallic silver button-ups and tailored jackets with added sheen are for the rocker who cares about how he looks. Leather jackets are still in the collection but this rocker is adjusting to tailored looks of suits and overcoats, even though a leather vest may sneak in under it. Read more
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: ACADEMY OF ART UNIVERSITY: SHADY N.R. ELIAS COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
February 9, 2008
The School of Fashion at Academy of Art University presented their Fall 2008 collections of recent graduates during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Two menswear collections were included. This post focuses on designer Shady N.R. Elias.
Born in Khartum, Sudan and raised in Cairo, Egypt, Shady’s collection found influences in the song “Bang Bang (My Baby Shot Me Down) by the Audio Bully’s with Nancy Sinatra on vocals. This song also embodies the mindset of Shady’s consumer. Further inspirations were found in Shady Abdel Salam (famous Egyptian cinematographer, director and costume designer), Islamic military dress and 1970’s Japanese anime. Read more
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: ACADEMY OF ART UNIVERSITY: YOUNG JUN RYU COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
February 9, 2008
The School of Fashion at Academy of Art University presented their Fall 2008 collections of recent graduates during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Two menswear collections were included. This post focuses on designer Young Jun Ryu.
Jun’s is a textile designer who came up with innovative textiles which were put into a collaborative collection by designers Jaime Cole, Desiree Daniels, Lauren Hume, Johanna Hatzenbuehler, Anne Jones, Muriel Jordan, Kara Laricks, Aurelie Martin-Chiari and Warot Subsrisunjai.
Jun’s textile prints on wool, cotton and faux fur were inspired by the artwork, nature and geometric shapes of Dutch graphic artist, M.C. Escher’s artwork. The faux fur in particular made for an interesting use of color and texture by Jun’s iron pressing the material and manipulating it to his desired effect.
The collection consisted of deep v-neck jumpsuits, cowl neck silk sweaters and coated faux fur vests and overcoats. A Marvin the Martian motif was seen on tee-shirt and hats.
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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: MICHAEL BASTIAN COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
February 9, 2008
For Fall/Winter 2008-09 Michael Bastian presented a collection of many looks that blend seamlessly together.
As with his previous collection last season, this one could take the models from the showroom to the street effortlessly. Bastian has developed a signature in classic, casual American looks. His clothing is unpretentious, unfussy yet perfect for a variety of occasions.
With this collection there was a focus on layering. Bastian seemed to present a foolproof guide to layering and dealing with the erratic temperature changes being experienced. Sweaters under coats and jackets, zip-up turtlenecks over button-ups, plaid puffers over tailored suits and shawl knit jackets over vests.
Bastian seemed to take in the climate change and gave men options for the wild fluctuations of the thermometer. He even presented shorts in this Fall/Winter collection, probably a hangover from his obsession with them for his Spring/Summer 2008 collection. But they are a welcome addition to the Fall/Winter collection especially as New York recently broke a February record hitting 67 degrees. If Mother Nature can flirt with the 70’s in February then Bastian can bring shorts into a winter collection.
Vests came in a variety options traditional looks to complete a 3-piece suit to a modern yellow puffer vest. But the standout for us was a creme quilted double-zip vest. It was pieces like this that gave the collection a casual elegance and additional depth in making classic piece so modern and relevant while staying understated.
Fun touches like Koala bears on knit sweaters or knit hats that resemble the face of a monkey added humor to the collection.
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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: ROCK & REPUBLIC COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
February 7, 2008
For Fall/Winter 2008-2009, Rock & Republic presented a grown-up collection in a wild, over the top production that seemed like a rock concert.
A full orchestra, electric guitars and drums played covers of classic Beatles songs to a celebrity packed audience. The presence of Russell Simons, Tyson Beckford, Ellen Pompeo, Sophia Bush, Vivica Fox, Christina Milan, Cameron Richardson and Natasha Henstridge, along with full lighting effects and camera crews added to the rock concert feel of the show.
As for the clothing, creative director Michael Ball has brought the collection a long way from denim in 5 years. We couldn’t find a single denim look on the runway.
What we did find was a collection of tailored looks entitled ‘Noir’. The name and looks invoked a by-gone gangster era of the 1930s and ’40s. Black was the word of the day when it came to the color palette, as different fabrics allowed various noir shades to come through.
Modern silhouettes mixed with sleek fits that should please Rock & Republic’s sexy, confident, youthful customers. Pinstriped suits and fedoras presented men as mature while staying fresh with slim fits and skinny ties.
Coats in all forms were the major standout. They came in double breasted form, belted form, leather form and trench form in what seemed to be a never ending supply of cuts.
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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: Y-3 COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
February 7, 2008
For Fall/Winter 2008-09 the Y-3 collection was presented before a wall of ice trucked into the city specifically for this presentation.
The ice theme reminded us of Galliano’s “Ice” collection theme presented in Paris, but designer Yohji Yamamoto’s take was decidedly more modern as tech fabrics comprised many looks. The silhouette was baggy and relaxed displaying a certain cool. The use of voluminous scarves made for interesting proportions as they were styled into the outfits at certain points.
The use of tartan, especially when it encompassed one model was sure to bring warmth despite the icy climate of the runway. Denim’s were clean and long with turned up cuffs while cargo pockets were added to other pants.
A standout from the collection came in the form of a black overcoat with red quilted lining.
The color palette was formed by blacks, icy cool blues, reds and military greens.
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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: DKNY COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
February 7, 2008
For Fall Winter 2008-09, DKNY presented a layered collection keeping with current trends.
Designer Donna Karen presented classic jackets, overcoats and cardigans for her diffusion line. Layering played a big role as sweaters were layered under and over jackets.
Scarves were stylishly draped around the gentlemen’s necks as ties were ubiquitous on all the models.
Trousers seemed to have an unwashed effect and loose fit.
A darkened subdued color palette was infused with pops of orange breaking from the purple trend seem everywhere else.
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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: OBEDIENT SONS COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
February 6, 2008
For Fall Winter 2008-09, the Obedient Sons collection featured modern twists on classic pieces.
Husband and wife team of Swaim and Christina Hutson most recently garnered recognition being for one of six finalists for GQ/C.F.D.A.’s Best New Menswear Designer in America award.
For this collection they chose to incorporate giant buffalo plaids and window pane plaids into tailored pieces. Modern, fitted silhouettes brought traditional fabrics up to date.
The edgy styling of shorts over fitted leggings kept the collection relevant as did shawl collars on tailored jackets. Certain trousers had cuffs at the ankles conveying the comfort of pajamas, while a wide neck crew sweater seemed incredibly right. Fingerless gloves were seen on all models in keeping with the trend seen throughout the Fall 2008 collection.
A color palette made heavy use of grey.
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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: PATRIK ERVELL COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
February 5, 2008
For Fall/Winter 2008-2009 designer Patrik Ervell had a finely tailored collection with sporty elegance.
Shawl collared one button jackets were layered over knits and button ups and paired with refined trousers that looked as comfortable as they did smooth. Other trousers had double pleats that looked refreshing instead of frumpy making a compelling argument for the overlaps of fabric.
Hoodies added a touch of functionality and sportiness to the collection as high collars overlapped giving the appearance of a double breasted neck. Meanwhile pull-over knit sweaters had double breasted shawl collars, which looked great alone or layered under a sportscoat.
Charcoals, beige and grey were the basis of a palette that came to life as gold made a significant appearance towards the end in the form of foil metallics and knits.
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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: BAND OF OUTSIDERS COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
February 5, 2008
For Fall/Winter 2008-2009 Band of Outsiders presented a collection of laid back tailoring.
Shortened double breasted jackets seemed right without overtly crying a play on proportion.
The use of tartan (seemingly mandated from above of all designers this season) gave a highland vibe to the collection. Fur trimmed hats and boots warmly relaxed tailored pieces in certain looks while the addition of bow-ties on other looks managed to look smartly chic and not stuffily overdone.
The boots themselves were a morphosis of the labels collaboration with Sperry.
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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: LACOSTE COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
February 5, 2008
For Fall/Winter 2008-2009, Lacoste presented a winter wonderland of wearable garments.
Chunky ribbed turtleneck, cozy scarves and pants made of jersey formed the beginning of the collection in a color palette of cremes, beiges and greys. These looks were instantly recognized and familiar and wearable albeit toeing the line in the precarious economic conditions currently being experienced stateside.
Classic looks were layered together as v-neck knits were placed over polos which were placed over turtlenecks. Argyle print patterned knits were presented in a range of sizes while pants made of comfortable jersey were tucked into chunky socks and boots. A shawl collar on a button up knit jacket was one of our favorite looks.
The winter wonderland was injected with island fever in the latter segment as a Jamaican palette of red, yellow and green brought warmth to the collection.
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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: DUCKIE BROWN COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
February 4, 2008
For Fall/Winter 2008-09, Duckie Brown had a collection that demanded attention and thought from the audience.
Music that started pumping through the speakers pre-show was cut off to silence permeated by the click-age of cameras as the first model came to the runway. The presentation continued in this manner for all 21 looks presented by designers Steven Cox and Daniel Silver.
The absence of music toned down the spectacle aspect that fashion shows can have and gave it a contemplative depth putting all focus on the clothing. The dignified and somber manner seemed to presage the turbulent financial climate ahead of us.
Nylon sweatshirts placed under tailored jackets were visually engaging with the absence of collar and placket of an oxford. It seemed as if absence were an underlying theme as the show was devoid of music, unecessary embellishments and even color at times, as a color palette of various shades of black was invaded at times by green and purple.
Reflective nylon windbreakers were placed over tailored looks. Militant shirts and jackets had a crumpled stiff paper appearance to them but with hidden strength.
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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: PERRY ELLIS SIGNATURE COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
February 3, 2008
For Fall Winter 2008-2009, the Perry Ellis collection was rooted in tradition.
Creative director John Crocco told us after the show he wanted a “return to tradition” which came through in a collection he referred to as “American Lodge”. Classic fabrics and patterns grounded the collection while tech fabrics of poly nylon added a touch of irreverence to tradition.
Brown suedes and chunky knits added a grandfatherly element to turtlenecks, cardigans and scarves, while improvements in textiles will prevent the bittersweet memories of itchy sweaters.
Traditional looks like wool scouting pants contrasted with poly nylon windbreakers. The use of poly nylon updated the collection’s traditional vibe by being used in pants, shirts and ties.
Meanwhile, lambskin added a touch of luxury to poacher jackets, field coats and stable pants. Reversible purple puffer vests added a bit of disregard to formal looks of pinstripe dinner suits.
Standout looks were a cashmere donegal cardigan with striped shawl collar, an exploded fairisle belted cardigan, and a lambswool cardigans which had it’s shawl collar resting on the lapels of a wool blazer.
The color palette included dark chocalates, burgundies, charcoals, and deep forest greens accented with purples and limes.
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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: NAUTICA COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
February 2, 2008
For Fall/Winter 2008-2009, the Nautica Men’s Collection took influence in the form of Ice Sailing.
Bringing together a trio of the sports participants in the Athlete, the Spectator and the Owner, creative director Mirian Lamberth presented a collection of 45 looks that mixed sportswear with tailoring.
In keeping with the labels heritage of tech innovation, high tech fabrics were a basis for the collection. Grey peacoats made of nylon were refreshingly cool with a reflective icy finish. Wool sportcoats were paired with nylon anoraks and poly tech pants that looked as comfortable as a second skin.
The tailored sporty collection boldly told peacoats to go with sweatpants and wool, hooded sweatshirts with zippers made of Teflon. The evening segment made use of hoodies under sportscoats as layering seemed another emphasis of the collection. Indeed a layering extreme was struck when a red colorblocked vest, placed over a silver windbreaker, placed atop a cotton henley with nylon shorts over tech pants came out earlier in the collection.
The luxe of a striped cashmere sweater easily went with the function of a silver nylon reversible raincoat. The functionality of hidden hoodies provided protection from icy elements.
Colors used included nautical navy, yellow, glacial blues, blacks and greys.
Standouts were a grey wool cableknit robe and shawl collared velvet smoking jackets. Guess those will come in handy when one is relaxing after the ice race is over.
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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: BUCKLER COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
January 28, 2008
For Fall/Winter 2008-09 Buckler presented a surrealist collection playing on the label’s Englishman in New York aesthetic.
What designer Andrew Buckler originally started as a denim brand has morphed in a full cult collection mixing British and American sense. The Royal College of Art trained, independent designer sneered at proper etiquette with this Fall/Winter collection which featured the element of surprise and the unexpected juxtaposition of different parallels that haunted the runway.
Darkened hues contrasted with reflective bronzes and coppers, traditional tailoring was placed with the unconventional detailing of bolts and screws and menacing prints were paired with the classic touch of a bowtie.
Buckler challenged the conventional wisdom of the industry blurring the lines with his haunting dreamlike presentation. The dark, gritty vibe was magnified by the smeared black make-up on models, copper chains hanging from fingers and hair deliriously styled to resemble horns.
An analysis of the clothing showed horizontally ribbed sweaters layered with vests, other vests were worn above overcoats and the use of metallic copper fabrics adding to the eccentric mood. The grim, warrior vibe also pushed itself through the use of furs, which were Rescued Vintage Animal Furs (recycled).
A color palette of various blacks came to life through saturated blues, burgundy reds, and bronze.
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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: YOKO DEVEREAUX COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
January 28, 2008
For Fall/Winter 2008-09 hip Brooklyn-based menswear label Yoko Devereaux presented a collection taking inspiration from the darker side of our culture’s obsession with high society and celebrity.
Presenting at men’s fashion week this past Monday, creative director Andy Salzer titled his collection “Holding Up the Heiress”. The celebrity obsession was added to via the presence of Alan Cumming, Sophia Lamar and Ana Matronic in attendance.
From the opening song of Simian Mobile Disco’s “I’m a Hustler Baby” a masculinity and downtown vibe was infused into the collection. Slim trousers with ankle zippers paired with jersey t-shirts and black leather ties. Short sleeved fleece cardigans had us drooling with the layering possibilities they allowed. Other blazers had slim lapels and were cropped exposing long jersey tee’s underneath.
Meanwhile brown woven shirts with contrasting collars and cuffs and gray ‘pullover’ woven shirts with a hidden plaquet of buttons were part of the labels full woven program.
T-shirts had abstract patterns using different hues of the same color. Other tee’s incorporated leaves, branches, trees and birds into their graphics. All the graphics made use of imagery from the works of artist Charles Lutz.
Andy graciously provided this fashion menswear blog with an after show interview telling us the collection had a “downtown meets uptown” vibe. He spoke with us about his desire to take a Williamsburg guy and dress him up, refine him and present him with clothing that is more socially acceptable to the high society.
Andy spoke of growing up with his customer and giving a guy pieces he can wear out to better high end places. He had a desire with this collection to give his customer more choices in his wardrobe. This was reflected through the use of tweeds, wools and wovens bringing “additional depth to the brand and the collection”.
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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: DISTILLED COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
January 28, 2008
Distilled presented their Fall/Winter 2008-09 collection on Pier 92 during ENK’s Men’s Fashion Week last week.
Distilled, is a collaboration between former Triple5Soul designer, Matty Merrill and his Stanford friend, Sep Kamvar.
The collection titled Math, Art and Nature, or M.A.N., included familiar preppy collegiate clothing made in unconventional ways. A heavily purple based collection included slim pants, sporty pieces such as varsity coats, plaid sweatshirts with black arms and purple parkas. The clothing is made in San Francisco using high quality fabrics such as pima cotton and lambskin.
The brand has a philosophy of distilling clothing to it’s basic components. After the show, designer Matty Merrill told us Holden Caufield, the protagonist of J.D. Salinger’s “The Catcher in the Rye” was an inspiration for the quirky tailored pieces.
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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: CONFERENCE OF BIRDS COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
January 28, 2008
Conference of Birds, the debut collection by designer/stylist Andrew Holden premiered last week at New York Menswear Fashion Week.
The designer Andrew Holden spoke with Haute Concept after the show, telling us that the name of the collection comes from a Persian poem about a journey of a group of 30 birds. The poem symbolizes a mythical journey of self-knowledge and a master leading his disciples to enlightenment.
For his first collection of about 32 looks, Holden presented modern silhouettes that combined classic British tailoring with enduring American workwear.
Green jackets were cropped, corduroy vests with shawl collars paired with huge scarves as leather trimming and epaulets were added to other pieces. The collection featured a lot of knits in the form of outerwear, hats and one particular hooded grey cable knit garment. Skinny pants were mixed with tailored jackets and plaid shirts were layered with vests as suspenders nonchalantly hung off of other models.
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PARIS FASHION WEEK: MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
January 23, 2008
For Fall/Winter 2008-09 Maison Martin Margiela presented a numerically light collection of about 20 looks.
Sharp, rigid tailoring was the focus of the collection as rigid, structured jackets paired with slim trousers. Double breasted jackets with satin collars were tapered presenting a sharp ‘V’ silhouette which seemed to run through the collection. Through the magic effects of tailoring a distinct silhouette emerged not seen in the other Paris collections. Exaggerated shoulders sharply protruded without forgiveness, coming together at a waist that seemed not to care for excess fabric.
This ‘V’ silhouette was used on tee’s and leather jackets merging with two vertical lines to create a Maison Martin Margiela ‘M’. Adding the the edgy vibe were barbed wired vests destined for the costume room paired with trousers tucked into calf length boots.
Fur trimming draped as scarves and used as collars, along with vests laid over bare skin kept in vibe with the other trends on the runways. Meanwhile limited edition boots painted with skulls resuscitated the whole skeletal skull and bones trend briefly.
L’Incognito sunglasses adorned models reiterating the focus and attention on the clothing not the models.
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PARIS FASHION WEEK: DIOR HOMME COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
January 22, 2008
For Fall/Winter 2008-09 Dior Homme creative director Kris Van Assche presented his first runway collection for the storied house after last season’s static presentation.
Holding court at Les Invalides, the burial site of Napoleon Bonaparte, Kris Van Assche chose for a live band to play.
In a sober collection that made heavy use of black as a color, Van Assche gave different hues of black to form the basis of the palette. Dark reds and greens added touches of color here and there.
As for the clothing, Van Assche went back to the snug fitting silhouettes pioneered by Hedi Slimane. Skin tight trousers resembled tights and slim, form fitting jackets were paired with them.
For a brief moment we thought that Van Assche had did away with the voluminous multi-pleated parachute pants he presented at his debut for the company last season. But, no. Alas, mid-way through the collection the homage to M.C. Hammer made it self known, in some cases seeming baggier.
Belted jackets, particularly the one in dark satin green was a must have while butterfly detailing was poetically added to suit jackets and used as bow-ties for tailored shirts.
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PARIS FASHION WEEK: ANN DEMEULEMEESTER COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
January 22, 2008
For Fall/Winter 2008-09, Belgium designer Ann Demeulemeester (part of the Antwerp Six) presented a charmingly poetic collection.
Set to the soundtrack of various renditions of Bob Dylan’s “Knockin’ on Heaven’s Door”, including his own, Demeulemeester contrasted a dark, Gothic tailoring viewpoint with lovely floral prints.
The first look set the tone with a solemn preachy looking model walking out with strap fringes hanging from his jacket and trousers. An almost puritanical vibe seemed referenced through the hats and starkly black color used.
This was soon contrasted with a floral vibe that came through with flowers attached to hats and a pink, green, purple and lilac print that was used in jackets, vests and trousers.
A collection which made use of heavy layering had it’s standout in the form of waistcoats with distinctly crimped lapels and collars perfect for layering or as a solo statement.
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PARIS FASHION WEEK: PAUL SMITH COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
January 22, 2008
For Fall/Winter 2008-09, Paul Smith presented a very anglophilic collection that was made relevant through the use of fabric technology.
Sir Paul sent out wonderfully tailored suits with quirky takes on British tailoring such as multi-button holed lapels on suit jackets and dual patterned lapels.
Tousled hair models strutted the runway styled with thin trim belts styled atop one another. Wide pinstriped tailored shirts, zebra print belts, five-buttoned suit jackets and disheveled ties added to the playful quirkiness that defines Sir Paul Smith.
Old English tailoring was made new and relevant through the use of modern cuts and advances in fabric technology. The collection may have been based in sartorial tradition, but it was updated through a distinct lightness to the tweeds, plaids and pinstripes. Three piece suits were freshly paired through a mix-matching of patterns.
And the retro-looking two toned sunglasses reminded us of rectangular Wayfarers. We’re thinking they’ll probably move briskly at retail.
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PARIS FASHION WEEK: LANVIN COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
January 22, 2008
For Fall Winter 2008-09, French fashion label Lanvin presented a collection that made use of tech fabrics cut to familiar tailored pieces with extremes being touched on.
The label’s menswear designer Lucas Ossendrijver went to the extremes of fabric research and construction of tech fabrics. The result was double bonded materials making use of neoprene fused to cottons and cashmere fused to leathers. The use of such materials came through in understated elegance the label is known for.
The collection had a decidedly crisp and boxy essence to it. The boxiness of the clothing came through in nearly all looks from suit jackets, to overcoats, to trousers. High cut double breasted jackets were paired with the extremely cropped trousers. We’re talking flood waters not seen since the likes of Noah.
A certain romanticism was in the collection through the addition of boutonnieres to nearly all of the looks. This floral accent added to the elegance of the collection.
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PARIS FASHION WEEK: KRIS VAN ASSCHE COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
January 21, 2008
For Fall/Winter 2008-09 Kris Van Assche gave a collection of his favorites for his signature line.
His favorites turned out to be looks favored by many other men. Denim shirts, denim jackets, worn jeans, plaids (how surprising), cozy sweaters and blazers came down a washing machine lined runway.
Jumpsuits layered with jackets and vests over button-ups took care of the layered effect. The distressed faded denim he presented swung the pendulum from the neat, dark clean denim rage of the past few years.
Pieces ranges from a simple yellow sweater with a button shoulder opening to a gray knit vest-scarf hybrid with pockets that draped around the neck and came down the front of the body, one of our favorites.
Other standouts were the boots with diagonal slant zippers and metallic quilted coats.
The show ended with the models stripping of the duds and throwing them into the washing machines.
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PARIS FASHION WEEK: VIKTOR & ROLF COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
January 21, 2008
For Fall Winter 2008-09 Viktor & Rolf presented a nostalgic gentlemanly collection for the menswear line “Monsieur”.
The Amsterdam based duo gave three piece looks had coats instead of suit jackets. Models clad in glasses and bowler hats came down the runway in bow ties and trousers that ranged from double pleated to wide legged and some slim.
Quirky effects like watch chains hanging from tailored shirts and jackets added to the nostalgia of a past era.
Suits ranged from form-fittingly tailored with nipped waists to bold look-at-me prints.
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PARIS FASHION WEEK: YVES SAINT LAURENT COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
January 20, 2008
For their Fall/Winter 2008-09 collection Yves Saint Laurent chose of ignore the runway and give a video presentation.
Designer Stefano Pilati chose actor Simon Woods to display the looks in the video.
Pilati continued to play with proportion and volume, though not as exaggerated as last season. The collection itself included roomy, floor-brushing, wide legged trousers being contrasted with tapered, cropped slim leg pants. Classic, well cut blazers clashed with bold, polka-dot print blazers.
There was a 70’s vibe to the collection. Crushed velvet was a highlet of the collection as it came through in blazers and one striking biker jacket.
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PARIS FASHION WEEK: JUNYA WATANABE COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
January 20, 2008
For Fall Winter 2008-09, Japanese designer Junya Watanabe presented a collection based on tailored uniforms familiar to bankers and stockbrokers.
Holding court in La Bourse, the historical Paris stock exchange, Watanabe sent down looks that would fit right in there.
2, 3, and 4 button jackets were the basis of the collection as nearly all looks presented were tailored. Watanabe took classic inspiration and made it modern and relevant by shrinking blazers to slim, tight proportions. Other jackets were mixed with a varsity slant through sleeves and pockets.
Blazers were teamed with equally slim denim pants. Details were added to jackets such as red stitched button holes and piping.
Trousers were cropped by way of rolling them up to reveal socks of patterned plaid, natch.
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PARIS FASHION WEEK: JOHN GALLIANO COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
January 19, 2008
For Fall/Winter 2008-09 designer John Galliano got medieval on our ass.
Never one for a quiet presentation the evil genius sent Princes, court jesters and bloody executioners gliding out on a runway representing ice.
Indeed the name of the collection was “Ice” a reference to the River Thames frost fairs that would take place when the river froze over during the 14th, 15th and 16th centuries. The phenomenon, which occurred when the climate was more severe, would bring forth masses of the community to celebrate.
This old English vibe was heavily referenced in the collection from jackets and robes to shoes and hats, even the hair styling. A bulky silhouette produced from layering contrasted with slim fitting jackets. Belted knits with fur trim and the overlapping of fabrics were prime standouts from the collection. Dark, gritty colors formed the palette used, save the bright red undies that made a cameo probably to please his licensees.
Knit v-neck tops and some blazers gave a hint of the commercially viable garments that will hit stores come next season.
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PARIS FASHION WEEK: COMME DES GARCONS COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
January 19, 2008
The Fall/Winter 2008-09 runway collection of Comme des Garçons was titled, “Time for Magic”
We felt that vibe as models strutted out in top hats, some crisp some crushed, to the tunes of Ella Fitzgerald all taking place in a crass night-venue on Paris’ Rue de Rivoli. Surely something special was going on, and if it hadn’t been the magic of Rei Kawakubo it would have been a joke.
From the first look that brought together a union of kilts and shorts Kawakubo was trying to say something. It came in patches stamped across a multitude of garments that read various slogans, such as “lies, lies, lies”, “Closing down sale” and “Last Days”. Oh boy, looks like the glass is half-empty.
If one designer received the memo on global warming it was Rei who had quite a few short-kilt hybrids for guys to whip out when unseasonably warm temperatures hit next fall and winter. And speaking of her use of kilt as a reference, you know comes along with that…more plaid. Oh my gosh, what a shocking surprise.
Jackets were washed and distressed with strips of this season’s ubiquitous tartan fabric criss-crossing here and there. Rei actually used this technique on trousers as well. Other jackets were deconstructed with zippers on the sides of the chest opening up to expose the shirts underneath.
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PARIS FASHION WEEK: YOHJI YAMAMOTO COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
January 19, 2008
For Fall Winter 2008/2009 Yohji Yamamoto presented a dark, masculine looks for his signature collection.
Lots of blacks, dark greys and navy blues formed the basis of the collection, despite the designer’s need to have three pops of bright color in the middle of the show as bright blue, green and orange made a cameo.
Yamamoto continued to reference a military theme. Looks were reminiscent of European army officers. Lots of coats and jackets cut and tailored in a distinctly Yamamoto way.
His explanation for the collection he told reporters backstage, “I thought menswear was becoming a little bit feminine; I wanted to make it masculine again.”
Yamamoto certainly did that with overcoats that incorporated, epaulets, suit lapels and cuffs accompanied by pleated trousers and what looked like zip up combat boots.
He also made heavy use of plaid, which we’re beginning to think was ordered of every designer by the Plaid Mafia. Yamamoto’s take on plaid was hidden in the lining of coats and as prints for tailored shirts.
The collection took a Celtic turn when bolts of plaid fabric were made into a kilt that came up the body, draped around the neck and fell again. Something that would take a real man to wear it indeed.
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PARIS FASHION WEEK: LOUIS VUITTON COLLECTION FALL/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
January 19, 2008
For Fall/Winter 2008-09 the Louis Vuitton collection delved into an exploration of it’s masculine side.
Marc Jacobs and his right-hand man for menswear Paul Helbers took inspiration for the collection from 60’s robbery movies.
Elegant and sleek men in slim fitting jackets and straight leg trousers came down the runway in untied ties hanging around their neck as if they didn’t have the time to finish dressing after changing outfits from their latest heist. Some models even paraded in crash helmets adding to the humour.
Even the color palette was inspired from old bank notes. Speaking of which, we wonder if that was cash stuffed in those bags. Probably not, but expect them to do well at retail as their Damier Graphite look is just the latest take on L.V’s iconic print.
We may have to get Danny Ocean and his boys to perform a heist for us to get our hands on those beautiful Damier Graphite print bags.
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PARIS FASHION WEEK: NUMBER (N)INE COLLECTION AUTUMN/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
January 19, 2008
For Fall Winter 2008/2009 the Number (N)ine collection was title My Own Private Portland reflecting the inspiration for the collection.
The show may have been presented in Paris, but the looks presented by designer Takahiro Miyashita were pure Americana. Models came down the runway in shabby chic, thrift store looks.
The venue was set to look like a run down garage. Shear-ling trim on suede coats, cowboy hats, boots and buffalo check gave an outdoorsy frontier vibe. The nostalgic lore of the wild west also came through in Native American print knits and moccasin shoes.
This historic inspiration was modernized in the form of cropped pants that reminded one of Thom Browne and shearling trim coats died blue and black.
Some of the looks may be thrift store inspired but don’t expect the prices to have the same inspiration.
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PARIS FASHION WEEK: JEAN PAUL GAULTIER COLLECTION AUTUMN/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
January 18, 2008
For Fall Winter 2008-09 Jean Paul Gaultier presented a nostalgic collection of dandyism with a twist.
The “enfant terrible” of fashion sent looks down the runway that were not terribly shocking as they were more classically pleasing.
The use of bowler hats and umbrellas as props gave a disarmingly haunting vibe to familiar looks and silhouettes. Gaultier’s narrative of a twisted dandy resonated in looks that weren’t avant garde, but rather surprisingly wearable pieces such as vests and belted coats.
A color palette of mixed browns, blacks and reds added to the dark vibe of the collection.
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PARIS FASHION WEEK: DRIES VAN NOTEN COLLECTION AUTUMN/WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
January 18, 2008
For Fall Winter 2008-09 Dries Van Noten presented a collection of “unconventional classicism” as he describes it.
This was seen in classic garments with added twists, such as a double breasted jacket with only one functional button of the two included, or classic haircuts with streaks of wild color.
Light silky materials were the heart of the collection giving everything from trousers to scarves an airy, light effect. Sometimes silk was even woven onto wool to emphasize use of original fabrics Dries Van Noten is familiar with.
Trousers were roomy and printed with many having zippers extending from the hem to mid-shin. Numerous coats and jackets incorporated a fur collar. Wild abstract prints were used on trousers, tailored shirts, puffer coats and lapels.
It was this use of the familiar with the unfamiliar that hit throughout the collection.
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MILAN FASHION WEEK: ETRO COLLECTION FALL WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
January 18, 2008
For Autumn Winter 2008-09 Etro presented a green collection in the sense of eco-consciousness.
The statement and vision were made explicitly clear as designer Kean Etro sent models out on a dirt trail of a runway lined with lush green hedges.
The eco conscious collection included images of onions and pears on shirts, and prints of leaves on fabrics. On paper it may seem like it could go kitchy and be over played. On the runway, or dirtway, it came across in well tailored looks in the form of vests, overcoats and well-cut trousers.
Prints were a big factor, and Etro’s seemed easy to wear without shouting at your face. Printed paisley trousers, cut slim but not tight, mixed with classic glen plaid double breasted blazers, cut high echoing the Thom Browne school of thought.
Chunky knits in the form of jackets and cardigans seemed cozy and comfortable. Velvet blazers came with piping in colors of pumpkin orange, yellow squash and chocolate brown.
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MILAN FASHION WEEK: FENDI COLLECTION FALL WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
January 18, 2008
For Fall Winter 2008-09 the Fendi collection presented an uber, uber-luxe collection.
Designer Silvia Venturini Fendi, used fox furs, croc skins and camel hairs in clothing and accessories.
In innovative techniques, coats were structured to look like capes and others had extended shawl shoulders giving refreshingly different silhouettes distinct from other collections this season. Jackets and coats were highly structured with sharp line and distinct cuts.
Polo cut shirts had fluffy fur collars and knits had lapel-collars that wrapped around the neck and fell to the front almost like a scarf. The word decadent comes to mind when you see knit sweaters with horizontal stripes incorporating fur trimming.
The color palette was mainly greys and browns.
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MILAN FASHION WEEK: D&G COLLECTION FALL WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
January 17, 2008
For Fall Winter 2008-09 the D&G collection was taken in a plaid mad direction.
The fun, younger brother of the Dolce & Gabbana collection cheerfully took tailored looks and familiar fabrics and patterns and threw them all against the wall. The result was a spontaneous combustion that resulted in rather pleasingly wearable looks.
Three piece suits were done in a hip way with u-neck vests and plaid pants. In fact, plaid was the dish of the day, the only thing on the menu actually, save a few delicately distressed appetizers. Red plaid, blue plaid, green plaid….have you tried the bias cut plaid sir? Plaid ties? We do hope you like plaid.
We certainly did, the way Chez Dolce & Chez Gabbana mixed the ingredients was visually pleasing to the palette.
If you think not, there are a few other dishes left such as the distressed sweaters, red, white and blue puffers, and don’t forget, quite a few things can be done in the patchwork flavoring.
And just to ensure you’ve had your fill, they sent out an an army of tux wearing gents in various flavors of plaid clad jackets. Surely you’ll find something to your liking. Would that be the shawl collared plaid jacket or the peak lapel plaid jacket?
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MILAN FASHION WEEK: GIORGIO ARMANI COLLECTION FALL WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
January 17, 2008
For Fall Winter 2008-09 Giorgio Armani’s signature collection was simply ‘regal’.
In his seventies and with assurance that a veteran designer of his age has, Mr. Armani disregarded what others were doing and followed his instinct and did his own thing.
In a collection that harked on old Hollywood glam, Mr. Armani sent gentlemen down the runway in tailored looks with fedoras on head and gloves in hand.
Three piece suits and quilted velvet blazers were made relevant and modern for today. The nostalgia of a by-gone era was subtlety implied and glam came through without the tacky glitz.
Still atop his game Mr. Armani made a statement at the end with a red carpet segment writer’s strike be damned. Since there wasn’t a red carpet, or even a show, at the recent Golden Globe announcements, Mr. Armani bought the red carpet to him as his gentlemen escorted ladies down the runway.
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MILAN FASHION WEEK: CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION FALL WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
January 17, 2008
For Fall/Winter 2008-09 the Calvin Klein Collection had a futuristic industrial vibe.
Creative director Italo Zucchelli takes traditional sportswear and transforms it into modern relevance while somehow keeping it refined.
Luxurious fabrics with modern treatments added twists to garments which were cut to enhance the figure. One emerald green fabric stuck out as the way it seem to fade in and out.
Jackets included high lapel, three button overcoats which were understated chic. A motorcycle jacket was remade in a shingled nylon ribon action sort of way that made it must have and was incorporated into footwear.
Zip-front turtleneck tops stretched up the neck as other tops looked like scarves were incorporated into the top as one garment.
All in all, a well cut, clean collection but nothing strikes us and particularly new. We have no question about Zucchelli’s role at Calvin Klein as he follows the namesake’s aesthetic. But while we understand his reluctance to step outside the box, we wish he would at least get near the edge.
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MILAN FASHION WEEK: DSQUARED COLLECTION FALL WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
January 17, 2008
For Fall Winter the twin duo that is DSquared sent out a collection where skiheads mashed with skinheads.
Canadian twins Dean and Dan Caten clashed a bad boy culture, reflected in swigs of beer and drags of cigarettes on the runway, with clean slope looks.
Combative military influenced camo prints came through in down coats. Models wore string thin suspenders and stovepipe jeans which were tucked into combat boots. Skinny black trousers and plaid shirts were layered with sweater vests.
This was suddenly contrasted with a tailored jacket, shirt and tie on top with ski pants on the bottom.
There was a definite culture clash on this runway, but the individual pieces comes together for one covetous collection.
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MILAN FASHION WEEK: GUCCI COLLECTION FALL WINTER 2008/2009 MENSWEAR RUNWAY REVIEW
January 17, 2008
For Fall/Winter 2008-09 Gucci creative director Frida Giannini brought us a whimsical, Russian inspired collection.
In one of her strongest collections to date, a clear conviction came across scruffy, unshaven, eyeliner-clad models strutted in gypsy-esque looks.
The mop-headed boys had a rocker chic sense about them as tailored looks were laid on them in a care-free way. Suit jackets and vests were kept informal by being paired with scarves and coin-dangling chain belts.
Reds and purples made powerful statements and came in the form and silks and velvets. Patterned shirts and suits were placed throughout the jingle-jangle collection. A military presence made itself known in the form of jackets and coats with brass buttons and epaulets.
A raw, gritty essence was provided by a constant riveting seen throughout the collection on embellished leather jackets, thin trim belts, boots, and bags.
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